XL

Austin home to a few good brewpubs

By Dina Guidubaldi
SPECIAL TO THE AMERICAN-STATESMAN
Thursday, March 05, 2009

Despite the information age, there are a few mysteries left in the world, for which we should be appreciative, if not thankful: Why do people always congregate in kitchens at parties? Why does peanut butter Cap'n Crunch cereal always shred the roof of your mouth? And of course, why aren't there more brewpubs in Austin, the city that probably drank itself into being - because why else would anyone take a look at those cold springs and pecan trees and decide to name it Waterloo? Fortunately, we do have a few places where you can grab a bite and a fresh brew.

North by Northwest Restaurant & Brewery

10010 N. Capital of Texas Highway (Loop 360). 467-6969, www.nxnwbrew.com.

• Bar hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m. to midnight Friday-Saturday

North by Northwest is, thank Dionysus, not a Hitchcock-themed brewery: no Cary Grant, no menacing crop dusters, no silhouetted portly men with weak chins. Nor is it a South by Southwest-themed brewery: no emo kids or wristbands. Instead, it's a chilly brick building in the midst of malls and stores that houses a variety of great beers, both light and strong. As far as the genuine brewing article goes, the silos out front actually contain barley; the head brewer and owner hail from the Bitter End and Copper Tank, respectively; and they eschew pitchers for the more portable glass growlers.

For $4.95, you can get a sampler of six beers. My favorite is the Py Jingo Pale Ale, a sweet mess of hoppy joy. The seasonal coffee brew is thick and dark and woke me up, and a variety of entrees, including pizza, salmon and corn bread, are about $12, with daily specials ranging from $11 to $22. The giant stone fireplace and high-beamed ceilings make the place look like a ski lodge, and the scent of boiling grains - which, to me, is reminiscent of hot socks, in a good way - makes it smell like one. All in all, it's thoroughly enjoyable, and with the vast patios outside, I imagine even better in the summer.

BJ's Brewhouse

5207 Brodie Lane, No. 300. 892-3800, www.bjsrestaurants.com.

• Bar hours: 11 a.m. to midnight Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday.

All right, BJ's is a national chain. That's true. But good beer is good beer, and BJ's makes good beer. For $5.75, you can get a sampler of four. I liked the porter (sweet and light) and the Harvest Hefeweizen (strong and a little banana-y). The Jeremiah Red is apparently the crowd favorite, I suspect not so much for the flavor as the 7.3 percent alcohol content, and BJ's version of the Grand Cru, often a cross between moonshine and trough swill, was actually drinkable and relatively sophisticated.

True, the food at BJ's came out suspiciously fast - is it possible they knew what we wanted before we did? - and the restaurant was playing a lot of Phil Collins and had a hypnotic six-screen TV over the bar, simultaneously showing four sports channels, one news channel and the Cartoon Network. BJ's also features something terrifying for dessert called "the Pizookie," which I refused to even think about, and the glassed-encased brewing vats, upon closer inspection, turned out to be brewing only cream soda and root beer, since their other beers are made in Houston. If you're from the future, BJ's, with its polished everything and Orwellian murals of expressionless people harvesting wheat, will make you feel right at home. And, I repeat, in case the Thought Police are listening: The beer is good.

(Disclaimer: When you leave, you'll inexplicably go spend almost a hundred bucks at World Market and will return home with batik curtains and rattan cushions and not understand where your day went. You'll suspect BJ's of putting some kind of pro-shopping ingredient into your beer, but you'll be too busy hanging your new Japanese lanterns to follow that thread.)

Independence Brewing Company

3913 Todd Lane, No. 607. 707-0099, www.independencebrewing.com.

• Tours: First Saturday of every month from 1 to 3 p.m., including this Saturday

If I were a less honest person, I would tell you that the double line of people a hundred deep for the Independence Brewing Co. first Saturday tour is worth standing in. But heck no, it isn't. Despite the free beer tickets, which will get you three cups, and if you purchase a pint glass for $5, you can get that refilled three times, and convivial atmosphere, you're basically in the parking lot of a warehouse, hoping the weather doesn't turn. Granted, on the day I went, the staff informed me that the size of the crowd was "kinda strange" and gave me extra tickets to make up for the wait. And it's true, too, that you go more for the scene than the beer itself. Well-behaved dogs are welcome, sausage is served, live bands play on a stage near the brewery entrance, and there's not much to do while waiting for the tour other than mingle and commiserate with the people in line. The beer itself is tasty, particularly the Freestyle Wheat, with the Barton Springs-evoking label, and the Independence Pale Ale, which is hoppy but not overwhelming -and fortunately, it's available in various places across town, all month and all year long.

Still, if you like people-watching, go on the next sunny first Saturday, this coming one , for example, and make sure to bring sun block, as there's no shade to be found, expandable Texas Longhorn chairs, expendable friends to wait in line for you and a healthy supply of patience.

North by Northwest brewer's dinner

When: 7 p.m. Wednesday, March 11

Where: North by Northwest Restaurant and Brewery, 10010 N. Capital of Texas Highway (Loop 360)

What: A five-course meal with beer pairings. Chef George Powell's menu will include a smoked mozzarella salad, pumpkin ravioli, red beans with gremolata, braised pork and chocolate mousse. Head brewer Ty Phelps will narrate paired tastings of five in-house beers, including a barrel-aged King Kona Stout.

Cost: $49 per person

Info: 467-6969, www.nxnwbrew.com