All-time all-stars

The restaurants that have helped make Austin a dining destination

By Dale Rice
AMERICAN-STATESMAN RESTAURANT CRITIC
Wednesday, August 27, 2008

Dozens of chefs and restaurant owners have made their mark on Austin as the city became a recognized dining destination. But far fewer of them have exhibited influence beyond their kitchens and staying power in the face of fierce competition. As I retire and begin a new career as a Texas A&M journalism professor, I look back over the nearly 15 years I have reviewed restaurants for the Austin American-Statesman. I see places that made a difference, places with the original chefs or owners who helped drive local cuisine upward with grace, creativity and artistry. Here are those restaurants, my all-time all-stars in Central Texas dining.

Hudson's on the Bend

Jeff Blank and a series of extremely talented No. 2 chefs, including the current Robert Rhoades, have produced the best Southwestern restaurant in the United States. Hudson's, with its game and regional flavors, has continued year after year to rise to meet the new competition.

Four Seasons (Trio)

Elmar Prambs, above, wasn't the original chef, but he was close; he arrived within months of the hotel's opening more than two decades ago. During that time, he has been an undisputed leader in fine-dining. Many chefs who have helped build the Austin dining scene spent time in his kitchen.

Uchi

Tyson Cole, right, brings national recognition to Austin. He is the only one of the three Austin chefs cited by Food & Wine magazine as the nation's top young chefs who still has his own local restaurant. With his sushi restaurant, Cole has pushed the boundaries of dining in Texas.

Jeffrey's

Owners Ron and Peggy Weiss and Jeffrey Weinberger have never given up in three decades as one of Austin's leading special-occasion restaurants. As the competition increased, they and their chefs, including the current Alma Alcocer, worked tirelessly to meet it.

Aquarelle

The three founders — Teresa Wilson, Jacques Richard and Robert Brady (who has moved on to teach at the Texas Culinary Academy) — proved that hard work and passion were two of the most critical ingredients in launching a successful restaurant here. In the process, they brought elegant French dining to Austin.

Fonda San Miguel

Owners Tom Gilliland and now-retired chef Miguel Ravago demonstrated that Mexican cuisine, often the fare of very casual spots, could become the basis for a high-end, art-filled restaurant that also has drawn much national acclaim throughout the years.

Wink

Owners Mark Paul and Stewart Scruggs made a big splash with their philosophy of using local products as much as possible, smaller plates to encourage multicourse meals and a daily-changing menu dictated by fresh ingredients. In doing so, they turned the page to a new chapter in Austin dining.

Vespaio

Chef-owner Alan Lazarus, right, helped define Austin style when it comes to fine dining with this Italian restaurant on South Congress Avenue. Not only did Vespaio contribute to the rejuvenation of that stretch of Central Austin, it created a buzz that has not diminished in the din of competition.

Café 909

Owners Mark (the chef) and Shelly Schmidt proved that creative, sophisticated fare was not reserved solely for residents of the Austin area. Their restaurant in Marble Falls demonstrated there is demanding dining audience around the Highland Lakes and that serious foodies from well beyond will make that drive for the rewards it delivers.

Finally, there's an honorary all-star, someone who has contributed mightily to make Austin a dining destination: Susan Auler. The co-owner of Fall Creek Vineyards and founder of the Texas Hill Country Wine & Food Festival has been a tireless champion of Central Texas cuisine for more than two decades. That support has helped put this region on the culinary map.

drice@statesman.com; 445-3859