FOOD

Harvesting summer's tomato bounty

Choose right variety for tasty salsas, spreads and salads.

By Michele Kayal
ASSOCIATED PRESS
Wednesday, July 15, 2009

A good tomato seems to hold the summer sun inside. The problem is finding a good one.

The best strategy is to scope out supermarkets that offer local produce or head to the nearest farmers' market, where the selection of tomatoes is likely to be fresher and more flavorful than the year-round grocer variety.

That's because most supermarket tomatoes have traveled cross-country or from overseas and have been bred to withstand the journey, not to taste good when they arrive.

Americans consume roughly 20 pounds of tomatoes each per year, most of that during the summer. And if you care about flavor, hope for a hot, mostly dry summer, which produces the sweetest tomatoes.

When selecting tomatoes, opt for those that are slightly soft, but not mushy. They should be free of cracks or hard, green spots.

"They should have a nice delicate feel, kind of like a baby's skin," says Lawrence Davis-Hollander, author of "Tomato: A Fresh-from-the-Vine Cookbook," to be released in February.

A perfectly ripe tomato will last for up to six days without spoiling, says Davis-Hollander. Others suggest buying under-ripe tomatoes for later in the week. Place them in a paper bag, where the tomatoes' natural emission of ethylene, a ripening hormone, will turn them red.

And don't forget the cardinal rule of all tomatoes: never store them in the refrigerator. The cold will dull the flavor, destroy the sugars and give the fruit a mealy texture.

The great beauty of a great tomato is that it can straddle both sweet and savory dishes. It's as tasty in salsas, salads, pizzas and pastas as it is in sorbet, chilly summer soups or even frozen pops (in Korea, tomato pops are a summer treat).

There are thousands of tomato varieties, each with a different flavor profile and different set of culinary talents. Decide how you're going to use your tomato — on a burger or for a salsa — then pick the variety that best suits it.

Here's a guide to some of the more common varieties and how to make the most of them.

Beefsteaks

These are your big, red globe tomatoes. They can weigh in at a pound or more, with a 6-inch diameter. They will mix a tangy, acid bite with a touch of sweetness, creating a classic rich flavor.

"They're akin to a Burgundy," Davis-Hollander says. "Big, broad, lots of nice taste, but not as focused as some of the tomatoes that are less meaty."

These are juicy tomatoes, with a lot of water. Beefsteaks come in more than 350 varieties. The Brandywine is one of the most common farmers' market varieties, but you also might come across Red Field Beauty, Soldacki, Cardinal, Matchless or the Mortgage Lifter, which supposedly got its name because it helped its West Virginia propagator pay off his mortgage, Davis-Hollander says.

Often called "slicers" because of their size and meaty texture, these tomatoes are great stacked on a hamburger or BLT, or carved into wedges and sprinkled with salt.

Bush tomatoes

Think baby beefsteaks. These uniformly round tomatoes are racquetball-sized, with a thick skin. They make a distinctive "pop" when bitten into. Prized throughout Europe and the Middle East for their rich flavor and juicy, explosive texture, their smaller size also makes them perfect for individual consumption.

Sometimes called "saladettes," they make bite-sized wedges perfect for salads or snacking.

Plums or Romas

The thick-walled, oblong plum tomato is synonymous with Italy. Known in supermarkets primarily as Roma tomatoes, these big-sweet, big-acid tomatoes are known for their chewy flesh and low water content. Which makes them perfect for tomato sauce.

These tomatoes also can be used for quick sauté dishes or in fresh salads where you don't want excess moisture. They offer longer shelf life than moister tomatoes.

"Throw them in a basket and this becomes your go-to tomato," says Mark Toigo of Toigo Orchards in Pennsylvania. "It's almost like an onion. That thing will stare at you for two weeks."

Cherry and other tiny tomatoes

Generally, the smaller the fruit, the bigger the sugar. That's one reason the tiny-tomato industry has boomed in recent years.

Cherry tomatoes run about an inch in diameter and traditionally are the most delicate and complex of the small tomatoes. Growers — and eaters — love the Sungold for its delicate orange tint and fruity, almost tropical flavor, says Josh Kirschenbaum, product development director for Territorial Seed Co. in Cottage Grove, Ore.

The Juliet, which resembles a mini-plum tomato at 2 inches long, is another favorite.

Grape tomatoes, named for their size and shape, have become grocery store standards and offer predictable, uniform sweetness.

Mini-tomatoes also can be pear- or teardrop-shaped and often come in red or yellow. These will have a slightly bland, more subtle flavor than grape or cherry tomatoes.

Currant tomatoes are about a quarter-inch in diameter and are intensely sweet. They have a flavor Kirschenbaum describes as "smoky."

Generally known as "snacking" tomatoes, mini-tomatoes are great skewered for shish kebabs or briefly sautéed for a pasta sauce.

Black tomatoes

Among the more exotic summer offerings are "black" tomatoes, which sport a deep purple color and run from plum-sized up to nearly a pound.

The Cherokee Purple offers big flavor, as does the Black Krim, which is softer and juicier than the Cherokee. These tomatoes make beautiful Caprese or tomato salads and delicious salsa.

Bi-colors

These super-juicy, gigantic tomatoes — up to 2 pounds — tend to be yellow with a red or orange blush, Davis-Hollander says. They have a big, fruity flavor with little of the acid associated with traditional tomato flavor.

"We're talking subtlety here," he says. Typical varieties might be Reginas, Big Rainbow or German Stripe. Use them for a delicate tomato sauce or a beautiful salsa or salad presentation.

Green, yellow and orange tomatoes

Green tomatoes — meaning those that ripen to a gentle shade of green — generally offer an almost spicy taste, Davis-Hollander says.

Among the most popular is the Green Zebra, a slightly firm tomato with yellow-green skin and purplish stripes that runs roughly 2 inches around. Aunt Ruby's German Greens are softer and can weigh in at a pound or more.

Yellow tomatoes tend to be sweeter and less acidic, with a generally mild flavor, Kirschenbaum says.

Orange tomatoes, like the Earl of Edgecombe and the Indian Moon, offer a rich orange color and mild fruity flavor, Davis-Hollander says, without the acidity associated with classic tomato flavor.

Fresh Rainbow Salsa

A rainbow array of height-of-the-season tomatoes makes an incomparably beautiful salsa. The precise amounts of tomatoes, tomatillos and hot peppers can vary. Other produce also can be added, such as cooked sweet corn or scallions. Try a combination of Aunt Ruby's German Green, Indian Moon, Limmony, Black Aisberg and any of the red tomatoes, such as the Ponderosa and Livingston varieties. Use the salsa as a dip or as a topping for tortillas or omelets.

1/2 cup diced red onion

1 tsp. salt

1/2 lb. (about 6) ripe tomatillos

2 to 21/2 lb. fresh tomatoes (a blend of sizes and colors)

1 medium-hot chile, such as serrano or jalapeño, or 1/2 tsp. red pepper flakes

2 Tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro

1 clove garlic, minced

In a small bowl, mix the onion and salt. Let stand for 20 minutes.

Peel and rinse the tomatillos. If desired, they can be roasted on a baking sheet for 15 minutes at 350 degrees, then cooled. This is especially good if the tomatillos are not fully ripe (they should be yellow-green or purplish when ripe).

Roughly chop the tomatillos. Dice all the larger tomatoes. Cut any small cherry or grape tomatoes in half and large ones into 4 to 8 pieces. Currant-sized tomatoes should be used whole.

In a medium bowl, combine all the tomatoes and tomatillos.

Dice the chili. If you do not want a hot salsa, carefully remove the seeds and the membranes from the pepper before dicing. Gently stir the chile, cilantro, garlic and salted onion into the tomatoes. Add additional salt to taste.

Let stand for 20 minutes before serving. The salsa is best the day it is made, but it will keep refrigerated for about a week.

Makes about 4 cups.

— Lawrence Davis-Hollander,

'Tomato: A Fresh-from-the-Vine Cookbook'

Tomato and Red Onion Salad with Pesto

4 large slicing tomatoes (such as beefsteak), cut into wedges

1/2 small red onion, diced

3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar

1 tsp. kosher salt

1/4 tsp. ground black pepper

1 cup lightly packed fresh basil leaves

4 cloves garlic

Parmesan cheese, for shaving

Arrange tomato wedges on a platter or large serving plate. Sprinkle the diced onion over the tomatoes. Set aside.

In a food processor, combine the olive oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, basil and garlic. Pulse until mostly smooth. Drizzle the pesto over the tomatoes and red onions, then shave the Parmesan on top.

Serves 6.

— J.M. Hirsch, Associated Press

Bacon And Tomato Jam

Nothing says jam has to taste fruity. This sweet-and-savory tomato jam is spiked with smoked bacon, making it the perfect condiment for a grilled cheese. It also adds spunk to tuna salad and has just the right tangy flavor for burgers. If you prefer a peppery kick, up the ground black pepper or add finely diced jalapeño peppers.

1/2 lb. smoked bacon

2 lb. very ripe tomatoes, cored and chopped

1 medium yellow onion, diced

1 cup sugar

21/2 Tbsp. cider vinegar

11/2 tsp. salt

1/4 tsp. ground black pepper

In a large skillet over medium-high heat, cook the bacon until crispy, about 5 minutes. Transfer the bacon to paper towels to drain excess fat, blotting dry with additional towels as needed.

In a large saucepan, combine the tomatoes, onion, sugar, cider vinegar, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, stirring often, then reduce heat to medium. Crumble the bacon into the tomato mixture.

Simmer until very thick, about 1 hour. Season with salt and pepper, as needed.

Let the jam cool, then ladle into jars. Can be refrigerated for 3 to 4 days, or frozen for up to 2 months. If freezing, divide the jam among several small jars. When ready to use, let a jar thaw overnight in the refrigerator. Makes 1 pint.

— J.M. Hirsch

Tomato and Feta Crostini

5 plum tomatoes, diced

1/2 Tbsp. kosher salt

12-inch baguette, cut into thin rounds

olive oil cooking spray

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

2 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar

1/4 tsp. ground black pepper

1 Tbsp. chopped fresh oregano

1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese

Place the diced tomatoes in a mesh strainer or a colander. Add the salt and mix gently. Set aside over a bowl or the sink to drain.

Heat the oven to broil.

Arrange the bread rounds on a rimmed baking sheet. Spritz the bread with the olive oil cooking spray, then broil on the bottom rack until just lightly toasted, about 2 to 3 minutes. Set aside.

Transfer the tomatoes to a medium bowl, discarding any juices that have drained out. Add the olive oil, balsamic vinegar, black pepper and oregano, mixing gently.

Spoon some of the tomato mixture onto each bread round, then top with crumbled feta. If desired, the crostini can be placed under the broiler for another minute or so to warm and lightly brown the cheese.

Serves 6.

— J.M. Hirsch