FOOD&DRINK

Passover Seder not complete without matzo ball soup

Making matzo balls at home from scratch is celebratory way to go

By Andrea Abel
SPECIAL TO THE AMERICAN-STATESMAN
Tuesday, March 31, 2009

"I -don't know why you're stressing," my husband said as I plunged my hand into the matzo ball batter in a pre-Passover panic, scooped up a morsel, rolled it in my moistened hands and plopped it into a pot of boiling water. "Just keep it simple."

"SIMPLE?" I snapped back at him in disbelief, stirring the steaming pot of chicken soup. "How in the world do you keep SIMPLE a meal that involves eating at least six different foods before the main course is served?"

Don't misinterpret my tizzy. Though the sheer enormity of preparing the ritual meal to commemorate Passover can be overwhelming, it is my favorite holiday because it brings together family and friends with singing, eating, more eating, four cups of wine, more singing, more eating. What could be wrong with that?

Passover, Pesach in Hebrew, celebrates the Jews' freedom from slavery in Egypt and subsequent 40-year trek through the desert to the land of Israel. The main celebration is the Passover Seder, the traditional meal during which participants retell the Exodus story and eat an enormous quantity of symbolic foods, including matzo, a specially prepared tasteless, crunchy flatbread meant to symbolize the Jews' hasty flight from bondage that takes the place of bread throughout the holiday, which starts April 8. Leavening, such as yeast, also prohibited along with various grains. Given that Passover lasts for seven or eight days (depending on observance), it is no wonder that Jewish cooks through the ages have bent over backward to find ways to make this dry, plain cracker more palatable. Hence, the matzo ball.

Since the destruction in 586 B.C. of the first temple in Jerusalem, Jews have been a wandering people adapting local customs and cuisine to the cultures in which they lived. Jews living in Eastern Europe most likely fashioned the matzo ball to mimic dumplings known as knödel in German or knaydlach in Yiddish.

For Jews of Eastern European descent, the Passover Seder is not complete without a bowl of matzo ball soup, and the quality of the matzo balls is the talk of the table. Delicious matzo ball soup takes time. But, it's worth it. Austin's Soup Peddler David Ansel says, "Frankly, it's not the kind of thing that should be outsourced. I believe families should make the effort. True, there are a lot of things to prepare for the Pesach table, but matzo ball soup is such an integral part of the meal and is a great way to involve kids in cooking."

Some actually enjoy a heavy, leaden matzo ball. But for the majority, light and fluffy is the way to go.

Every Jewish cook has her or his own family secret recipe. My mother swears by using seltzer (sparkling water) instead of tap water to make the dough. David Kogan of Simcha Kosher Catering also employs this culinary trick.

Former caterer and avid home cook Carol Bilich says, "When I make the matzo balls from scratch, I use very cold water. I also separate the eggs and beat the whites until they are stiff. In another bowl I mix the remaining ingredients well, and then I gently fold in the egg whites. I don't pack the ball tightly when I make it, just enough compression to make it into a ball. I don't really think about all this. It's just what I learned from my mom and from making them on my own."

Let the dough refrigerate for at least an hour and up to overnight to thoroughly incorporate the wet and dry ingredients. Keep in mind when forming the balls that the dough will expand greatly while boiling. About a tablespoon is the right amount. The longer the matzo balls boil, the lighter they will be. Keep the lid on to maintain a constant temperature. Slice through a matzo ball to ensure it has cooked all the way through.

As for taste, unless you are vegetarian, use shmaltz (rendered chicken fat) as the oil source. The fat lends a subtle, delicious flavor. To make schmaltz, sauté chicken skin and fat mixed with salt, pepper and chopped onion over low heat until the fat melts away leaving, crispy cracklings known as gribenes. Strain and cool it to solidify. If this procedure proves too taxing, fat can be skimmed off chilled chicken broth and used in place of schmaltz. Otherwise, use canola, safflower or a mild olive oil.

Enough salt is crucial. Under-salted matzo balls taste like wet paper towels. Cooking the matzo balls in broth adds flavor. Do not cook them in the soup - you'll end up with cloudy soup and bits of matzo balls.

Depth of flavor can be added with a grating of fresh nutmeg, fresh ginger or a bit of dried ginger. Ground almonds lend a nutty, rounded flavor and a bit of texture. Finely chopped sautéed onion will give a slight sweetness to the dumpling.

As a last resort, pick up a boxed matzo ball mix. Because it still requires adding eggs and oil, there's not much to be gained except built-in seasoning and avoiding a big box of matzo meal on your shelf for the next 12 months.

Follow the tips below for the best flavor and consistency with the mixes. But, please, please, please don't use the soup packet. It's just an envelope of MSG and other chemicals that give matzo ball soup a bum rap.

Passover pickup

If making your own matzo balls just isn't an option, don't despair. Order part or all of your Passover Seder from the following sources:

• Simcha Kosher Catering offers a large online pre-order menu ­- all Kosher for Passover - for part or all of your Seder and the rest of the holiday as well. Deadline to order is 4 p.m. Thursday , 797-8375, www.simchakosher.com.

• Both Central Markets' catering services can provide everything from matzo ball soup to herb-roasted salmon throughout Passover for pickup or delivery. At least 24 hours' notice needed on all orders, www.centralmarket.com, 206-1024 (north), 899-4300 (south).

• Hillel, the University of Texas Jewish students organization, contracts through Simcha Catering to serve Passover meals - lunch and dinner - throughout the holiday. Pre-ordered meals are available for takeout, primarily for students, but the community also is welcome. 476-0125, www.texashillel.org.

• Chef Ari Dvorin can provide all or part of your Passover Seder with creative or traditional kosher-style menus, including drop-off, setup, or full-service catering. Orders must be received 48 hours in advance. 567-5288, www.chefscatering.com.

Chicken Soup With Wild Mushrooms and Herbed Matzo Balls

Try this recipe for a bit of hâute cuisine. Browning the chicken and onions first lends a deep brown color and rich taste to the broth with mushrooms lending an earthy counterpoint. The tarragon and chives brighten the flavors. Use fresh herbs if possible.

For soup:

1 Tbsp. vegetable oil

1 3-lb. chicken, cut into pieces

2 large onions, cut into 1-inch pieces

12 cups water

3 celery stalks, cut into 1-inch pieces

1/2 bunch Italian flat-leaf parsley

2 bay leaves

For matzo balls:

1 oz. dried shiitake mushrooms

2 cups hot water

1/3 cup chicken fat (reserved from stock or purchased)

4 large eggs

2 Tbsp. chopped fresh chives

11/2 Tbsp. minced fresh tarragon or 11/2 tsp. dried, crumbled

11/2 tsp. kosher salt

1/4 tsp. freshly ground pepper

1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg

1 cup unsalted matzo meal

31/2 quarts water (14 cups)

2 tsp. minced fresh tarragon or 1/4 tsp. dried, crumbled

1 cup thinly sliced fresh wild mushrooms (shiitake, oyster, trumpet, morel, porcini)

Minced fresh chives

Enoki mushrooms (optional)

Heat oil in large heavy pot over medium-high heat. Add chicken and onions and cook until brown, stirring frequently, about 15 minutes. Add water, celery, parsley and bay leaves. Bring to boil, skimming surface. Reduce heat and simmer gently until reduced to 8 cups, about 5 hours. Strain into bowl. Cover and refrigerate until fat solidifies on top. (Can be prepared 2 days ahead.) Reserve remaining boiled chicken for another use. Once cold, skim remaining fat from the top of soup and use for matzo balls.

Place dried shiitake mushrooms in small bowl. Pour 2 cups hot water over. Let soak until softened, about 30 minutes. Combine chicken fat, 1/4 cup shiitake soaking liquid (reserve remainder), eggs, chives, 11/2 Tbsp. tarragon, salt, pepper, and nutmeg in medium bowl and beat to blend. Mix in matzo meal. Cover and refrigerate 3 hours. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover mushrooms in soaking liquid and refrigerate.)

Measure 31/2 quarts water into large pot. Salt generously and bring to boil. With a spoon, scoop out 16 equal portions of the cold matzo meal mixture onto a cookie sheet. With dampened hands form the mixture into 1-inch balls and add to boiling water. Cover and boil until matzo balls are cooked through and tender, about 40 minutes. Transfer matzo balls to plate, using slotted spoon. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover tightly and refrigerate.)

Drain mushrooms, reserving liquid. Thinly slice mushrooms, discarding stems. Combine 1/2 cup remaining mushroom soaking liquid, soaked shitake mushrooms, fresh wild mushrooms, chicken soup and 2 tsp. fresh tarragon in heavy large saucepan and bring to simmer. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add matzo balls and simmer until heated through. Ladle re-heated soup into bowls. Garnish with chives and optional enoki mushrooms and serve. Serves 8 for first course.

- Adapted from Bon Appétit, April 1991

Spiced Carrot and Sweet Potato Soup With Almond and Ginger Matzo Balls

Satisfying vegetarian recipes are not always easy to find for Passover. This vegetarian adaptation with Middle Eastern influences is filling enough to be the main course. The smooth, hearty puréed soup is made more complex with a palate of spices. Preparing the soup in advance allows a greater depth of flavor. Be sure not to add too much cayenne as the intensity will creep up over time. The matzo balls are dense with a nutty flavor from the toasted almonds and the warmth of ground ginger.

For matzo balls:

1/4 cup olive oil

1/2 cup slivered almonds, toasted

11/4 tsp. kosher salt

1 tsp. sugar

3/4 tsp. ground ginger

1/4 tsp. ground black pepper

4 large eggs

1/3 cup ginger ale

1 cup unsalted matzo meal

1 1/2-inch-thick round peeled fresh ginger

Makes 16

For soup:

6 Tbsp. olive oil

6 cups 1/4-inch-thick rounds peeled carrots (about 2 lb.)

2 cups chopped onion

3/4 cup diced peeled tan-skinned sweet potato (not yam)

31/4 tsp. ground cumin

2 tsp. paprika

1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper

1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon

8-9 cups vegetable (or chicken) broth

1 Tbsp. honey, sugar or agave nectar

Salt and pepper to taste

1 bunch fresh cilantro, rinsed, patted dry, and chopped

To make matzo balls: Place oil in a medium bowl. Blend almonds, salt, sugar, ginger and pepper in food a processor until nuts are finely chopped; mix into oil. Whisk in eggs and ginger ale; stir in matzo meal. Cover tightly and chill 1 day.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil; add the fresh ginger round. Drop batter onto a sheet of foil in 16 equal mounds. Using wet hands, shape mounds into smooth balls and drop into boiling water. Cover pot tightly. Reduce heat to medium. Cook matzo balls until very tender throughout, about 1 hour 15 minutes. Resist the urge to open the lid. Using slotted spoon, transfer matzo balls in single layer to 13-inch-by-9-inch-by 2-inch baking dish.

The matzo balls can be made up to 2 days in advance. Cover tightly and refrigerate. Re-warm by steaming for 20 minutes on vegetable steamer rack over boiling water.

To make soup: Heat oil in a heavy large pot over medium-high heat. Add carrots, onion and sweet potato. Sauté until onion is translucent, about 8 minutes. Add 23/4 tsp. cumin, paprika, cayenne and cinnamon; stir 1 minute. Add 8 cups broth and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover and simmer until carrots are very tender, about 30 minutes.

Purée soup in small batches in blender or in the pot with an immersion blender until smooth. Return to the pot. Mix in remaining 1/2 tsp. cumin. Thin soup if necessary with all or part of remaining 1 cup broth. Season soup to taste with salt and pepper. Do not over-season, flavors will intensify over time. For best flavors, refrigerate at least 1 day and up to 3 days.

To serve, rewarm soup over medium heat. Rinse and pat dry the cilantro. Chop cilantro. Ladle soup into bowls; add matzo balls and sprinkle with cilantro. Serves 8 for first course.

- Adapted from recipe by Selma Elaine Brown on Cooking.com

My Favorite Traditional Chicken Soup With Matzo Balls

I have been making my own chicken soup since college and added the matzo ball recipe when I found the Raymond Sokolov cookbook at Half Price Books while in graduate school. The soup recipe is based on the one I had seen my mom make through the years - the kind that is never written down. I like the sweetness that the parsnips impart and the flavor from the fresh dill. Somewhere along the way, I learned to pierce the onion with whole cloves to simmer in the broth.

- Andrea Abel

For soup:

1 large onion, peeled

12 whole cloves

3 lb. chicken whole or cut into pieces, washed and patted dry

2 bay leaves

3 large carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces

3 ribs celery, cut into 1-inch pieces

3 parsnips, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces

3 sprigs fresh dill

1 tsp. whole peppercorns

12 cups water

Salt and pepper to taste

3-5 large carrots, peeled and cut into 1/8- to 1/4-inch disks

1 small bunch fresh dill, rinsed, patted dry, and chopped (optional)

Poke the whole cloves into the whole onion. In a large heavy pot, put in the chicken, bay leaves, onion with cloves, carrots cut into 1-inch pieces, celery, parsnips, dill, and peppercorns. Add 12 cups water. Bring to a low boil, skimming the surface. Reduce heat and simmer soup uncovered for 3 hours.

Cool the soup and strain the broth. Reserve chicken for another use such as chicken salad. Refrigerate broth for a few hours or overnight until the fat solidifies on the top.

Skim the fat from the top of the broth to use for the matzo balls. Reheat soup when ready to serve adding carrot disks. Cook for approximately 30 minutes or until carrots are tender. Add matzo balls (from recipe below) 10-15 minutes before serving. Ladle soup and matzo balls into bowls and sprinkle with a bit of fresh chopped dill before serving. Serves 8.

- Andrea Abel

Matzo balls:

4 large eggs

1/2 cup water or seltzer

6 Tbsp. melted schmaltz (rendered chicken fat)

11/4 tsp. kosher salt

1/4 tsp. freshly ground pepper

2 tsp. freshly grated ginger

1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg

1 cup matzo meal

Beat the eggs until whites and yolks are blended. Stir in the water or seltzer, schmaltz, salt and pepper, ginger and nutmeg. Gradually stir in the matzo meal. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour (or overnight).

Bring a large quantity of salted water to a boil. With a spoon, scoop out equal portions of the dough onto a cookie sheet, a rounded tablespoon each. Form the matzo balls with moistened palms. Drop into boiling water and simmer, covered, for about 30-45 minutes. Matzo balls will nearly double in size while cooking. Makes about 16-20 matzo balls. Serve in chicken soup.

- Adapted from `The Jewish-American Kitchen' by Raymond Sokolov