FOOD&DRINK

Indian food: It's all about the spices

Cooking teacher from India explains the ways her native food is flavored.

Wednesday, November 19, 2008

Chaya Rao's pantry must be the envy of her Southwest Austin neighbors.

In it you'll find dozens of containers, from small plastic ones holding delicate spices she's carried back from her trips home to India to large bins of rice and lentils bought at Costco. On her kitchen counter is a set of metal bowls in a metal tray, called masala dabba, which translates to "spice box," in which she stores the brown, orange, yellow and red powders that hold the smells and flavors of her native country: chili powder, turmeric, coriander, cumin, garam masala.

In another tray, a different set of spices, lentils and leaves reflects the regional flavors of her homeland: black mustard seeds, cumin seeds, asafetida, curry leaves, urad dal, channa dal.

"All these spices have some healing (effects) in ancient Indian science of medicine," she says as she arranges the ingredients to make a traditional Indian meal. She recalls a Hindu proverb: "A wise speaker keeps conflicts away; a wise eater keeps sickness away."

Although Indian food, as well as other cultural traditions such as yoga and henna, has grown popular in the U.S., few home cooks attempt to make it. So Rao, 37, relishes her role as an ambassador for the cuisine of her native country as a cooking instructor at Central Market and Whole Foods Market. Her classes, which started about year ago, are an entry point for those wanting to try their hand at home with samosas, dosas, dals, curries and chutneys.

As she begins a traditional Indian meal, she starts what is called vagaar, the process of heating oil, then throwing in spices from her masala dabba such as turmeric or mustard seeds, which flavor the oil. The she adds beans, rice, meat, tofu or vegetables. Vagaar is the foundation of nearly every Indian dish.

But it is the less-tangible chaat, the lip-smacking goodness that elevates food from mere nourishment, that drives Rao's philosophy of cooking. Chaat, which is also the name for street food found throughout India, refers to combining various textures and flavors to create a complex feeling in your mouth. Rao loves creating texture and taste variations and finding ways to make dishes that are sweet, salty, sour, smooth, crunchy and spicy at the same time.

"That's what makes my dishes successful," she says. "Each part of your tongue keeps getting surprised. ? You can apply chaat to TexMex, Thai, Italian, anything."

Rao has been cooking since she was a 9-year-old growing up in Karnataka, a state in Southern Indian where many of her family members still live. She moved to Minnesota in 1994, where she received her master's degree in computer science and met and married her husband a few years later. They moved to Austin in 2003.

She recently cut back her hours as a software instructor to make room for more cooking classes, which she started teaching a year ago. Most sell out, which has encouraged her to consider making a career out of the classes.

Rao is a lifelong vegetarian. Meat isn't a daily staple in Indian cuisine, even for meat eaters, and many rely on lentils or beans for protein for economic, religious and health reasons. To avoid bean burnout, Rao changes their textures, blending lentils into a soup one night and combining edamame with rice the next.

A typical day's meals for Rao's family might include a savory breakfast called upma, made of lentils and sooji (semolina similar to Cream of Wheat) and a lunch of rice and saambhar stew with a spiced vegetable side dish of eggplant, okra or green beans. For dinner, they might have chapati bread and dal made with lentils, tomatoes and onions.

Ancient Indian cooking consisted mainly of rice, dairy products, tropical vegetables and spices indigenous to India, including pepper, mustard, turmeric, coriander and cumin. In the 14th and 15th centuries, Spanish traders and colonists brought chiles, onions, garlic, tomatoes, potatoes and many other ingredients, which have all been adopted in Indian cuisine.

Middle Eastern invaders introduced leavened breads, nuts and creams, which is most apparent in Northern Indian cuisine. ("They didn't invade any farther south," Rao says. "Why would they? It was too hot.")

This is also why the ancient Indian culture is more present in Southern India, Rao says. In the North, an evening snack is still popular, and in the South, breakfast is the most traditional meal. Stuffed pastries called samosas, naan bread - and its less-fancy counterpart, chapati - and garam masala spice mix are favored in the North, and crepelike stuffed dosas and stews made with saambhar powder are traditional in the South.

The northern region of Punjab is home to the Indian food most familiar to Americans, she says, such as saag paneer and tandoori chicken, but this only represents a small sample of the variety of cuisines found in India.

Rao points out the connection between Latin American and Indian cuisines in her classes. She talks about how she uses cilantro, jalapeños, rice and tortillas not to make salsas and enchiladas but to make chutneys and samosas. "Chutney is a pesto-salsa hybrid that's about 3,000 years old," she says. "It's the original deal."

Rao mixes her own dried spices instead of using a premade curry powder. (See above box, "What is curry?") Some premixed spices are OK to use, such as garam masala, which means "toasted spice mix."

In making samosas, dosas and other Indian breads, Rao uses durum wheat, sooji, rice flour or chickpea flour. All-purpose flour is reserved for desserts.

"Cardamom is widely used in Indian desserts, almost like how the Western world uses vanilla," she says.

"Olive oil is something exotic that you rub on babies when they are young," she says, and its flavor overwhelms many Indian dishes. She uses canola oil in her countertop deep fryer. "Anything deep-fried is fancy," she says. "It's not like here where fries are with everything."

For many dishes she uses ghee, clarified butter that contains no solid milk particles or water. Ghee, popular in tropical climates, stays good for up to six months without refrigeration and is easy to make. Rao says all you have to do is melt and then boil unsalted butter in a saucepan (do not stir) until the sediment sinks to the bottom and the butter turns a golden amber color and gives off a pleasant smell. Let it cool for 25 minutes, then drain through a cheesecloth or strainer. (Rao saves the leftover milk solids to spread on toast.)

On a recent afternoon, while Rao helps her daughter Keertana, 7, with her piano homework, they munch on a spicy mixture of rice crisps, shoestring potatoes, chickpea noodles and peanuts, an Americanized version of one of Rao's favorite Indian street foods.

Although Keertana prefers dosas with peanut butter instead of chutney and soy nuggets before piano practice, Rao does her best to make sure her daughter is constantly exposed to the culinary pleasures of India. She shares that same knowledge in her cooking classes and wants to eventually write a cookbook or host a television cooking show.

"This calling is dragging me," she says. "We'll see where it will take me."

abroyles@statesman.com; 912-2504

Where to buy ingredients

Many Indian ingredients are found at Fiesta Mart, MT Supermarket, MGM Indian Foods or other grocery stores with a large selection of ethnic ingredients.

In addition, you can order just about any spice or ingredient on the Internet. Here are some resources.

* www.natco-online.com

* www.kalustyans.com

* www.patelbrothersusa.com

What is curry?

Curry means 'vegetable' in many Indian languages, which is a far cry from what it has come to mean in the U.S. Many dishes, including those with meat, are called curry, as is a spice mixture found in many stores. Dried curry leaves are frequently used to flavor dishes, similar to a bay leaf.

'In South Asia, the definition of curry changes every 100 miles,' says Chaya Rao. Instead of using a premixed curry, which Rao points out is a British invention that usually has a flat taste and includes celery seeds, mace, fennel and/or nutmeg, try different combinations of spices such as turmeric, cumin, coriander and chili powder. However, she recommends using the premixed varieties of complex spice blends such as garam masala, saambhar and rasam powders.

Chaya Rao's cooking classes:

Chaya Rao has several vegetarian Indian cooking classes coming up. Here are the classes and dates. For more information, go to her Web site, www.vegicurean.com.

Thursday - Vegetarian Thanksgiving, Whole Foods Market Culinary Center

Dec. 16 - Indian Vegetarian Holiday Fare, Whole Foods

Market Culinary Center

Dec. 20 - Chai Tea Class, Whole Foods Market Culinary Center

Jan. 8 - Southern Indian Cuisine, Central Market, North Lamar Boulevard location

Feb. 25 - Indian Cooking Basics, Faraday's Kitchen Store

Stock your pantry for Indian food

* Durum wheat flour

* Basmati rice

* Cardamom, whole

* Chili powder (Chaya Rao says a substitute for Indian chili powder, which isn't the same as that used in American chili, is one part cayenne and two parts paprika)

* Coriander, ground

* Cumin, ground and whole

* Garam masal a

* Turmeric

* Canned tomatoes

* Long grain rice

* Garbanzo beans

* Split yellow lentils

* Dal (legumes such as toor, a, channa)

* Rasam powder

* Saambhar powder

* Mustard seeds

* Tamarind (purée or pulp)

* Fresh ginger

* Cilantro

* Green chiles

- From Chaya Rao's Web site, www.vegicurean.com

Tips for Indian cooking

* Use a pressure cooker, which saves time cooking beans, and a rice cooker.

* Invest in a good blender. Chaya Rao has more than a dozen blenders and grinders; each homemade flour, spice or chutney has its own grinding device. For most cooks, a good food processor and strong blender should do the trick.

* If you are using whole seeds such as fennel, cardamom, cloves, fenugreek or coriander, grind them with a spice mill or coffee grinder reserved for spices.

Samosas

For dough (alternatively, you can use six 8-inch tortillas):

11/2 cups all-purpose flour or unbleached flour

1/2 cup rice flour

3 Tbsp. canola oil

1/2 tsp. salt

Cold water

For binding:

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

Few spoons of cold water

For filling:

2 Tbsp. oil

1/2 tsp. turmeric

1 cup frozen peas, thawed

1 tsp. garam masala

1/2 tsp. chili powder

1 tsp. lemon juice

1 tsp. salt

3 medium Yukon gold potatoes, boiled, peeled and coarsely mashed

Oil for frying

To make the filling: Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a sauté pan, add turmeric and the green peas and sauté over medium heat for 3 minutes. Add the garam masala, chili powder, lemon juice and salt. Take the pan off the heat. Mix in the potatoes thoroughly and set aside.

To make the shell: Make a firm dough by mixing the dough ingredients. Divide into six balls and roll each into 8-inch rounds that resemble tortillas. Cook them lightly over a very low flame on both sides just enough to make the sticky surface disappear. Cut each circle down the middle into 2 semicircles. (If using tortillas, cut them into semicircles at this stage). You will have 12 sheets.

To make the binding: Make a paste resembling glue with flour and water.

Assembly: Take a sheet and place it on a board so that the curved edge of the semicircle is on the top and the straight edge is on the bottom. Lift the bottom left corner and fold the sheet half way. Put some flour paste to bind the sheet in a line where the end of the fold meets the base. Pull the right bottom corner upward to make a cone shape. Bind this end again with some flour paste. The sheet now will look like a cone with an opening. Fill this opening to 3/4 the capacity with the potato-pea filling. Seal the cone edges with more flour paste. The end product will be like a cone-shaped pocket pie. Repeat the same with the remaining 11 sheets.

Heat oil in a deep fryer or frying pan to about 400 degrees. Test by dropping a pinch of the sheet dough in the oil. The oil is ready to fry if the dough floats up right away. Drop the samosas into the oil and fry them until golden brown. Drain on absorbent paper. Serve with mint and date chutneys. Makes 12.

Cilantro and mint rice

3 cups basmati rice

51/2 cups water

6 Tbsp. canola oil, divided

1 cup grated fresh coconut

1/2 large onion, chopped

6-10 serrano chiles, chopped

1 bunch cilantro, roots trimmed and leaves and stems coarsely chopped

1 cup fresh mint leaves, packed

1-inch piece of ginger, grated

3 cloves garlic, peeled

1 Tbsp. coriander powder

1 tsp. cumin powder

1 Tbsp. cumin seeds

1/2 large onion, sliced

1 Tbsp. turmeric

1 cup frozen green peas, thawed

11/2 to 2 Tbsp. salt

2 tsp. sugar

2 Tbsp. lime juice

Wash and cook the rice with water and 1 tablespoon oil. Once cooked, fluff and air the rice.

Make a smooth paste of coconut, chopped onion, chili peppers, cilantro leaves, mint leaves, ginger, garlic, coriander and cumin powders by adding as little water as possible. In a huge sauté pan or wok, heat the remaining oil, toast the cumin seeds, add the sliced onions and turmeric. Sauté for 2 minutes on medium-high flame. Add the peas and the spice paste and sauté for three more minutes on medium flame. Add salt and sugar and lime juice, turn off the heat and mix well. If the pan is large enough, add the rice to the pan and mix well. Otherwise, pour the rice and the sautéed mixture onto a large tray and mix well. Serves 6.

Dal

3 cups split red lentils (cooked well)

7 cups water, divided

3 ripe tomatoes (slit and seeded)

2 tsp. salt

1 Tbsp. butter or ghee

1 tsp. cumin seeds

1 medium onion, chopped

1 tsp. grated fresh ginger

3-4 large cloves of garlic, finely chopped

1 serrano chile, chopped (optional)

1 tsp. chili powder

1 tsp. coriander powder

1 tsp. cumin powder

1 tsp. turmeric

Juice of 1 large lemon

1/2 cup chopped cilantro

Place the lentils and six cups of water a huge heavy-bottom stock pot. Boil for 30 minutes on medium flame. Add the tomatoes and salt and boil for 10 more minutes. In a large pan make the seasoning by heating the butter or ghee on medium flame. Add the cumin seeds; when the seeds crackle, add onions and sauté for 2 minutes over medium-high flame. Add ginger and garlic and sauté for few more seconds. Add tomatoes and cook for couple more minutes. Add the chili, coriander, turmeric and cumin powders and sauté for few more seconds until a gentle aroma starts to fill the kitchen. Pour cooked lentils and a cup of water into the pan; mix well. Simmer at low flame for five minutes. Add the lemon juice and garnish with chopped cilantro. Serve hot with cooked rice or Indian breads. Serves 6

Carrot Halwa

This dish combines carrots and cardamom in a savory dessert.

4 cups finely grated carrots

4 cups skim or 1 percent milk

11/2 cups sugar

8 oz. of low-fat ricotta cheese

1 tsp. finely ground cardamom

1 Tbsp. ghee (or melted butter)

1/2 cup chopped unsalted pistachios

Lightly butter a heavy-bottom pan. Place the carrots in the pan and pour in all the milk. Place it on medium heat for 15 minutes. Turn the heat to low and let it stay for another 30 minutes, or until all the liquid is evaporated. Add the sugar, ricotta cheese and cardamom and mix well. Keep on low heat for 3 more minutes. In another small pan, heat the ghee and fry the pistachios over medium heat for 40 seconds. Pour over the halwa. Can be served hot or cold. Serves 12.

Makhani Sauce Recipe

This sauce can be served over grilled or stir-fried vegetables or meat.

1 large onion, cut into large chunks

1 Tbsp. finely chopped ginger

2 Tbsp. finely chopped garlic

1 Tbsp. poppy seeds (optional)

1 cup cashews (both raw and roasted work well)

1 Tbsp. butter

2 Tbsp. finely chopped onions

1 tsp. turmeric

2 cups water, divided

1 can tomato sauce

1 Tbsp. chili powder

1 Tbsp. garam masala

1 Tbsp. salt

1 Tbsp. sugar

1 cup low-fat sour cream

1/2 tsp. ground cardamom

Place onion chunks, ginger, garlic, poppy seeds and cashews in a blender; and blend into a smooth paste/purée by slowly adding water.

In a heavy-bottom pan, melt butter; add finely chopped onions and sauté for a minute on medium-high flame. Add turmeric powder and wait for 10 seconds. Add the onion-cashew paste and water and sauté for 1 minute, adding spoonfuls of water to prevent the sauce from drying. Add the tomato sauce, chili powder and garam masala, salt and sugar and mix well. Add 11/2 cups of water; cover and simmer on medium flame for 10 minutes.

Remove from the stove, add the sour cream and cardamom and mix well with a whisk. Serves 6.

- All recipes from Chaya Rao