Going against the grain

Restaurants, stores and home cooks find a grateful and growing following when they cater to those on a gluten-free diet

By M eredith Hight
SPECIAL TO THE AMERICAN-STATESMAN
Wednesday, October 24, 2007

Most restaurant owners would be concerned if their customers routinely burst into tears upon perusing the menu and display case. But at Wild Wood Art Café, which specializes in wheat-free and gluten-free items, this kind of reaction is considered just part of doing business.

Gluten is a protein found in wheat, rye, barley and oats, and many on a wheat-free or gluten-free diet find themselves unable to eat the typical fare at many restaurants, including sandwiches, lasagna and breakfast foods such as French toast and pancakes. Wild Wood Art Café serves gluten-free versions of all of the above, to a grateful clientele.

"At least once a week, somebody comes in crying," says Mariah Justice, one of the owners. "Because they get to eat pizza, or a cookie or something they haven't eaten in years." Others come straight from the doctor's office with a list of foods they can't eat and are eager to sample the rice bread. Justice adds that customers include a group that carpools in from Louisiana to stock up and those who just drive across town on their lunch hour to scarf down a gluten-free sandwich.

On a recent Saturday morning, the bakery and café at 3663 Bee Cave Road is bustling with customers enjoying gluten-free meals amid the colorful walls lined with Oaxacan art. Sophie Werkenthin, who is 8 years old, is happily eating a sandwich with her family, who live nearby and frequent Wild Wood.

It was an attempt to eat more healthfully that led Sophie and her family to the gluten-free diet. After receiving a bread machine for Christmas, Sophie's mother, Melissa, made several loaves of whole wheat bread. Sophie, who was 2 at the time, became ill not long afterward. Though she ate constantly, she seemed unable to gain any weight. Dark circles appeared under her eyes and she developed eczema.

Melissa Werkenthin and her husband, Max, did research on the Internet and matched up Sophie's symptoms to those of celiac disease, a genetic autoimmune disorder that damages the small intestine when someone with the disease consumes gluten. "After putting Sophie on the diet, her symptoms went away," Max Werkenthin says. Melissa Werkenthin went on the diet and felt better as well. At that point, to make it easier to prepare meals for the family, Max and son Roman, now 2 years old, followed along with the rest of the family.

Once thought to be relatively rare, celiac disease increasingly is being diagnosed in the U.S. population. A recent study by the Center for Celiac Research, based at the University of Maryland, found that 1 in 133 Americans have celiac disease.

Frances Kelly, chairwoman of Alamo Celiac Austin, a chapter of the national Gluten Intolerance Group, said membership in the group has grown in recent years. "When we started seven or eight years ago, we had maybe 15 or 25 at our first meeting," she says. "We now routinely have 30 to 50 at every meeting, and our membership roster is over 300."

Gluten-free shopping

As awareness and diagnoses of the disease have increased, so have options for those adhering to a gluten-free diet. "It used to be places like H-E-B would scratch their heads, like 'What are you talking about?' when you would ask about gluten-free products," Kelly says. "Now, they have a gluten-free section." H-E-B stocks all of its stores according to customer demand, store size and shelf space, so the gluten-free selection varies from store to store. Gluten-free items are typically found in the health or natural foods section.

The difference between wheat-free and gluten-free items and products should be noted. Though wheat is typically the grain most often used in many products or foods to be avoided, many items labeled "wheat-free" that would appear to be safe for people with celiac disease contain gluten in some other form. People attempting to follow a gluten-free diet must be diligent about reading food labels closely to avoid becoming ill.

Though Central Market does not have a dedicated gluten-free section, the store flags gluten-free items on the shelves and recently began carrying the Gluten Free Pantry line of products. That line includes gluten-free mixes for cookies, cakes and brownies and quick-mix dinners such as pasta fagioli. Carole Chaffee, a foodie in her 12th year at Central Market, says the store has gotten a number of requests for gluten-free foods.

"We have come up short on bread offerings," Chaffee says. "People are asking for more selection."

Whole Foods Market carries a number of gluten-free products as well. The Gluten Free Bakehouse products range from hamburger buns to blueberry muffins to cherry pie and are available in the bakery section at both Austin locations. At the downtown store at Sixth Street and Lamar Boulevard, these products are also available in a separate freezer adjacent to the frozen foods section.

The company also recently rolled out a line of gluten-free mixes under its in-house 365 label, including pizza crust, white cake and cornbread mixes. The mixes can be found in the gluten-free section, which takes up nearly half of one side of the baking aisles at both locations. Whole Foods also provides a list of its gluten-free products on its Web site.

The use of specialty ingredients in gluten-free foods and mixes tends to make them more expensive than their conventional counterparts. A loaf of regular wheat bread costs about $2, for example, whereas a small loaf of gluten-free bread usually runs about $4. Xanthan gum is often used as a binder or thickener in many gluten-free products, and typically costs about $10 for a small bag.

It is not as simple, though, as sticking to products or foods that appear to be gluten-free. Gluten lurks in unexpected places. For example, soy sauce is brewed with wheat; soups, sauces and salad dressings are often thickened with flour; and oats serve as a base for some chili preparations. Soy and rice milks sometimes include barley. Some products, such as corn tortillas or packaged nuts, are dusted with flour, and cross-contamination is often a concern with items such as potato chips, which might have been manufactured on the same line as chips or cereals containing gluten.

Local products fill need

Once those who are diagnosed learn to read food labels and it's clear which ingredients are to be avoided, cooking and preparing gluten-free at home is fairly easy.

"At first it was overwhelming," says Laura Carvalho of Austin, whose son, William, has celiac disease. "It was so sad for me. You feel like the world is so much smaller, and there are not a lot of options." Carvalho has since identified a number of foods that her son enjoys, including homemade graham crackers, Orgran animal cookies, tacos and Amy's gluten-free pizza. "When he grows up, I hope I can give him a recipe book. It really is a way of life, and it's healthy."

Baking gluten-free might be the greatest challenge facing people with celiac disease. Baking without the binding properties of gluten can sometimes result in dry and crumbly baked goods. After tiring of the limited gluten-free dessert options, Austinite Karen Morgan launched a blog, the Art of Gluten-Free Cooking (theartofglutenfreecooking.blogspot.com), to showcase recipes and post photos of gluten-free desserts she creates. "After my diagnosis, there weren't any desserts available," she says. "You get sick of eating chocolate mousse every time you go to a restaurant."

Morgan says that getting the flavor right is the easiest part about baking without gluten. "It's the texture and consistency that are the biggest challenges," she says. "Most gluten-free things are hopelessly dry or so grainy, it's just unpalatable." As she has created her recipes, Morgan has developed her own techniques for keeping gluten-free baked goods moist, such as separately mixing dry and wet ingredients. For those new to the diet, Karen advises, "It's all about experience. Become familiar with all the products you are using, and use the best ingredients you can find."

Morgan often prepares gluten-free desserts for parties and family gatherings and says that when she mentions, "'By the way, it's gluten-free,' their eyes just pop out." Most proud of her tres leches cake, Morgan admits she is still working to perfect a gluten-free chocolate chip cookie. However, her efforts to share techniques and recipes are about more than being able to eat dessert. "I didn't want to feel victimized. I wanted to be proactive and turn something bad into something good. Life without gluten can be really beautiful."

Morgan bakes and posts recipes at least several times a week in hopes of reaching a general audience. Though she does not expect to do mass production anytime soon, she does plan to offer a few of her items for sale at Emerald City Press, a newsstand and café set to open near the Nokonah residential tower in downtown Austin in January.

Tim Elias, who moved to Austin a year ago from New Jersey, also must avoid gluten and wanted more options, especially at coffeehouses and cafes. He worked tirelessly to re-create the chocolate chip cookies he ate before he went on the gluten-free diet.

"I remember the texture and the taste," he says. "I kept playing until I found a texture that reminded me of a good chocolate chip cookie."

He ultimately was successful and founded dipDunk LLC, which makes six varieties of wheat- and gluten-free chocolate chip cookies, including pecan, super chunk, cranberry, walnut and macadamia nut. "People assume wheat-free tastes like cardboard," he says. "But even people who can eat wheat really enjoy these cookies. The reception has been amazing."

The dipDunk Cookies are sold at Royal Blue Grocery, Ruta Maya, Garden District Coffee House and Dominican Joe. "I just want to provide options to those in a similar situation to myself."

McGovern's Organics, a company in Cedar Park, prepares, sells and delivers gluten-free products and meals through its Web site, and also offers gluten-free cooking classes. The company's items, ranging from King Ranch casserole to cupcakes, can now be found in the freezer at two People's Pharmacy locations. Katie and Meagan McGovern, who are sisters, founded the company after Meagan discovered that her son with autism improved on the diet and that others within the autistic and celiac communities were eager for more options. The sisters are willing to meet with anyone who needs support and guidance with the diet.

Challenge of eating out

Though the resources available online and the increased offerings in stores have helped those on the gluten-free diet, eating out remains difficult for many people with celiac disease. The possibility for cross-contamination, or the willingness of a restaurant to determine exactly what ingredients appear in the menu offerings, often inhibits them from frequenting restaurants.

"The biggest adjustment has been eating out," says Anne Allen, who was diagnosed with celiac disease several years ago. "If I go out to dinner and there's nothing for me to eat, I'll have a glass of wine or something. Or I eat before I go."

Fortunately for those who are eating gluten-free, a number of restaurants in Austin, in addition to Wild Wood Art Cafe, offer gluten-free menus, including Outback Steakhouse, Z'Tejas, P.F. Chang's China Bistro, Pei Wei and Maudie's Tex-Mex. North by Northwest Restaurant and Brewery goes a step further and serves Anheuser-Busch's gluten-free Redbridge beer. Manager Curry Dodson said that it is not that challenging to be accommodating of those eating and drinking gluten-free, and added that the special menu has brought in additional business.

"No one has been reduced to tears," he says. "But they are pleased to have the option."

Celiac disease

Celiac disease is a genetic disorder affecting children and adults. People with celiac disease are unable to eat foods that contain gluten, a protein found in wheat, rye, barley and oats. Symptoms include diarrhea, weight loss, abdominal pain, chronic fatigue, weakness, malnutrition and other gastrointestinal problems. In children, the symptoms may include failure to thrive (an inability to grow and put on weight), irritability, an inability to concentrate, diarrhea and bloating.

Source: Center for Celiac Research at the University of Maryland

Common products that contain gluten

Bread

Pasta

Crackers

Cereal

Bagels

Doughnuts

Pastries

Other foods that often contain gluten

Imitation crabmeat

Soy sauce

Soups

Deli meat

Salad dressings

Spice blends

Sausages

Local resources

Wild Wood Art Café

3663 Bee Cave Road, No. 4A

www.wildwoodartcafe.com 327-9660

The Art of Gluten-Free Cooking (Karen Morgan's recipe blog)

www.theartofglutenfree

cooking.blogspot.com

McGovern's Organics

www.mcgoverns

organics.com 983-3197

People's Pharmacy

4201 Westbank Drive

327-8877

13860 U.S. 183 N., Suite C (at 620) 219-9499

Whole Foods Market

www.wholefoodsmarket.com/specialdiets/

gluten-free

Coconut Tres Leches

4 Tbsp. unsalted butter

1/4 cup vegetable oil

11/2 cups sugar

7 egg yolks

1 cup white rice flour

1 cup sweet sorghum flour

1/4 cup tapioca flour

1 tsp. kosher salt

2 tsp. baking powder

1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg

1 cup unsweetened coconut milk

1 tsp. coconut extract

5 egg whites (about 1/2 cup)

For the Tres Leches Syrup:

1 cup heavy whipping cream

1 can sweetened condensed milk

1 can evaporated milk

Preheat oven to 350 degrees and lightly grease an 8-inch square baking pan with 2-inch sides and set aside.

In a stand-up mixer with paddle attachment, cream together the butter, oil and sugar until the sugar looks very wet, about 45 seconds. Add the egg yolks and continue folding the batter until smooth. Turn the machine to the lowest setting and add all the sifted dry ingredients. When you can no longer see any dry ingredients, turn the mixer on high and continue to mix for a couple minutes more; you should be able to see strong beautiful folds at this point.

Pour in the coconut milk and the coconut extract and mix until the mixture is again very smooth. Add the egg whites and mix on high for 3 minutes. Pour the cake batter into your prepared pan, cover with aluminum foil and bake for 50 minutes to 1 hour or until a wooden toothpick comes out clean.

Just before the cake is ready to come out of the oven, make your tres leches syrup by stirring together the heavy cream, the sweetened condensed milk and the evaporated milk until smooth.

When the cake is done, remove from the oven and allow to cool for only a few minutes. Then take a long wooden skewer and poke a couple dozen holes into the cake. Immediately pour the tres leches mixture over the cake until it has absorbed all of it. Cover with aluminum foil and refrigerate overnight.

The next day, make your icing:

Seven-Minute Icing

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/4 cup water

2 large egg whites

1/8 tsp. cream of tartar

Pinch of kosher salt

1/2 tsp. Mexican vanilla

1 cup sweetened shredded coconut

In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, boil the sugar and the water over medium high heat until it reaches the soft ball stage or 239 degrees on a candy thermometer. This will take several minutes.

While the sugar is coming to temperature, whip your egg whites, cream of tartar and kosher salt until thick and foamy. Add the vanilla and mix until incorporated. Set aside.

When the sugar has reached 239 degrees, immediately pour the hot sugar into the egg whites with the mixer on high speed and whip for 5 to 7 minutes.

(I always err on the side of caution with my Seven-Minute Icing so that I don't overwork the egg whites. When this occurs, the egg whites literally begin to fall apart. If you have noticeable air bubbles in your icing, it is ruined — you can use it, but it will begin to slide off your cake if you do, so I advise against it. After making the recipe a couple of times, you'll get the hang of it, as is the case with all things culinary.)

Fold in the shredded coconut and immediately ice your coconut tres leches. Return to the refrigerator and chill until ready to serve. The gorgeous thing about this cake is that it keeps on getting better the colder it gets, so it may take an extra shot of patience to make it, but after the first bite, you suddenly forget any complaint you could have possibly had as you try to decide your next bite ... will it be one with or without icing? Either way, you'll be beside yourself with satisfaction.

— Karen Morgan, theartofglutenfreecooking.blogspot.com