XL Food & Drink: The Sampler Plate

50 brief reviews from restaurant critic Dale Rice

From American to Vietnamese and everything in between.

Thursday, August 03, 2006

AMERICAN

Cafe 1626. A popular family spot with a video game arcade. The burger/pizza joint on Manchaca Road, 1 1/2 miles south of Slaughter Lane, offers good burgers, subs, lasagna and a moderately priced, all-you-can-eat pizza buffet. Forks up. Cheap. 11600 Manchaca Road. 440-1626.

Maxine's Soul Kitchen. This small, unassuming restaurant in East Austin fills the plate with home-style, Southern cooking brimming with flavor. Daily lunch specials of baked chicken, smothered pork steak and beef tips were tasty, as were the vegetable sides such as cabbage, black-eyed peas and collard greens. Forks up. Cheap. 2931 E. 12th St. 220-3650.

Springhill Restaurant. This well-rounded spot can fry up a storm — from chicken-fried steak to some of the best onion rings in Central Texas — or grill a tasty entree, such as catfish. Forks up. Cheap. 13212 Texas 71 W. 263-3244.

Stagecoach Inn. The historic inn is in fine form, still producing its signature dishes from the 1940s. The four-course meals include an appetizer such as shrimp cocktail or fruit cup, a salad such as tomato aspic or fruit, tasty entrees with generous portions of sides and desserts (the signature is the strawberry kiss with meringue, ice cream and strawberry sauce). Forks up. Moderate. 401 S. Stagecoach Road in Salado. (254) 947-5111.

Texadelphia. This local chain started across from the University of Texas in 1985 and has built its reputation on a single sandwich — the 'cheesesteak' — and its chile con queso. Other offerings include burgers and Italian subs, chicken salad and veggie sandwiches. Forks up. Cheap. 2000 S. Interstate 35. 804-0804.

AMERICAN BISTRO

Café Caprice. This admirable successor in Basil's old location features a fusion style that is subtle and graceful, perfectly matching the ambience of the small bistro. Delicious choices included the pecan-crusted schnitzel, tuna impaled with asparagus, tomato bisque, corn-and-shrimp salad and the chocolate mousse cake. Moderate/expensive. 900 W. 10th St. 477-5576.

Cafe Josie. The zesty flavors of the 'American tropics' sail especially well on the fruits of the sea. Excellent lobster cakes, shrimp potstickers and trout with blue crab salad are a few of the dishes that make the small cafe one of Austin's best seafood spots. Expensive. 1200-B W. Sixth St. 322-9226.

Chez Zee. There is a comforting consistency in the food and the attitude here. It's a welcoming place where you feel at ease lingering over coffee and desserts that are among the best in the city, such as the coco leches, lemon-rosemary and chocolate decadence cakes. For starters, you can't miss with the chicken Gorgonzola pizza. Moderate. 5406 Balcones Drive. 454-2666.

Monzi's Fine Cuisine. Here are two good reasons to make a stop in Giddings: the lovely 1870s ambience and the delightful fare of Monzi's. Good dishes include the shrimp Diablo and fried green tomato appetizers and the Atlantic salmon and lamb chop entrees. Moderate. 155 W. Austin St., Giddings. (979) 542-2201.

Palmer's. A solid, upscale respite in a town full of college-oriented eateries. Tasty dishes included the penne pasta with sun-dried tomatoes and cream sauce and the habanero-honey glazed pork chops. For an unusual dessert, try the tiramisu with bananas. Moderate. 218 Moore St., San Marcos. (512) 353-3500.

Zoot. The small American bistro west of downtown remains one of the best restaurants in Austin. Excellent food from chef-owner Stewart Scruggs included an artistic stonefruit salad, chilled cucumber soup, escolar over creamed spinach and an entree of sweetbreads. Expensive. 509 Hearn St. 477-6535.

BARBECUE

Bert's Bar-B-Q. After more than 30 years, Bert's appears to have turned the art of barbecue into a science. Each of the meats — chicken, brisket, beef ribs, pork ribs, turkey and sausage — was tender and moist, an unusual experience, particularly late in the lunch hour when many places are serving meat that has begun to dry out. Forks up. Cheap. 3563 Far West Blvd., No. 109. 345-2378.

County Line. Loaded with juicy, tender meat and dripping with barbecue sauce, the huge beef ribs were about as good as you could hope to find in Central Texas. If they don't fill you up, a chicken combo plate will, with smoky chicken, tender brisket and flavorful sausage with a couple of sides. Have some of the sweet, secret-recipe white bread to get started. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 5204 RM 2222. 346-3664.

Southside Market & BBQ. A fixture in downtown Elgin for more than 100 years, Southside moved in 1992 to an abandoned bank building on U.S. 290, where it now is one of the town's first landmarks for drivers heading east. The good barbecue includes pork ribs, baby back ribs and the all-beef 'Elgin hot sausage.' Forks up. Cheap. 1212 U.S. 290 W., Elgin. (512) 281-4650.

BURGERS

Fran's. The reigning queen of Austin burgers, the semiretired Fran Junk built a South Congress Avenue landmark that packs 'em in for a good burger. Forks up. Cheap. 1822 S. Congress Ave. 444-5738.

Hill's Cafe. Savor the best burger in town, an 8-ounce, never-frozen, well-seasoned patty on a slightly sweet, sourdough, kolache-style bun, with leaf lettuce, tomatoes, white onions, pickles and a side of fries. Forks up. Cheap. 4700 S. Congress Ave. 851-9300.

CAFES

Kerbey Lane Cafe. When breakfast food beckons at 7 p.m., stop by this 24-hour spot that also serves a broad range of chicken dishes, sandwiches and salads. Still, if there's one place Kerbey Lane excels, it's the plate-sized pancakes. Forks up. Cheap. 2700 S. Lamar Blvd., 445-4451.

Monument Cafe. This all-day restaurant with home-style food is as inviting at breakfast as it is at dinner. Morning offerings include a generous ham-and-cheese omelet and French toast topped with fresh berries. Evening specialties include a good chicken-fried steak made from natural beef. Don't pass up the luscious Monument chocolate pie with a pecan crust. Forks up. Cheap. 1953 S. Austin Ave., Georgetown. (512) 930-9586.

CAJUN

Evangeline Cafe. This friendly, laid-back restaurant in Southwest Austin features unpretentious Cajun and Creole fare. Tops on the menu is the oysters contraband, fried oysters on homemade potato chips topped with sausage rémoulade sauce. Other reasons to go there include the boudin, crawfish Evangeline (a Cajun version of fettuccine Alfredo) and fried catfish. Forks up. Cheap. 8106 Brodie Lane. 282-2586.

Ms. B's. Simple, unadorned food — dishes that rely on exquisite cooking, not presentation or creativity. The gumbo left a New Orleans native sighing in satisfaction. The vibrant crawfish bisque was equally enticing. The chicken jambalaya and the garlic shrimp and oysters over pasta were delicious. Moderate. 8105 Mesa Drive. 372-9529.

CHINESE

Chinatown South. The key word here is 'light.' Dishes as disparate as beef on a flaming platter, shrimp cooked in foil and chicken with candied walnuts are united in spirit: Each has a delicious, light, savory sauce that augments rather than overwhelms the dish. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 3300 Bee Cave Road. 327-6588.

Lotus Hunan Chinese Restaurant. This West Lake Hills strip-mall spot turns out tasty moo shoo pork and an appetizer tray that includes beef strips, fantail shrimp and sesame pork. If the restaurant is not especially busy, it will even make egg foo yong, which is not on the menu. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 3201 Bee Cave Road. 327-7776.

CONTINENTAL/FRENCH

La Madeleine French Bakery & Cafe. For those times when only real butter, real cream and real egg yolks will do, La Madeleine is there with French desserts such as almond croissants, éclairs, puff-pastry Napoleons and berry tarts. Other favorites include rich tomato soup, Caesar salad and quiche Florentine. Forks up. Cheap. 3418 N. Lamar Blvd. 302-1486.

Mansion at Judges' Hill. Conceptually, the menu scores big, with small portions that encourage a multicourse meal. The offerings also are cleverly divided into land, sea, air and garden categories. Rewarding dishes include the onion soup, duck confit quesadilla, maple cider-glazed quail and tender seared beef. Expensive. 1900 Rio Grande St. 495-1857.

INDIAN

Clay Pit. Contemporary Indian cuisine has found a home in the historic Bertram Building near the Capitol. The fare covers dishes such as mussels in a curry sauce, coriander-crusted calamari, beef vindaloo (a stylized stew), khuroos-e-tursh (a chicken breast stuffed with mushrooms, onions, peppers and nuts) and a nationally renowned mango cheesecake. Moderate. 1601 Guadalupe St. 322-5131.

ITALIAN/MEDITERRANEAN

Brick Oven on 35th. A small, quiet, neighborhood restaurant, this Brick Oven is an independent franchise of the Austin original. But it serves equally good food, including the multigrain-crust pizza, which is baked in a wood-fired oven, and pasta dishes such as spinach ravioli and fettuccine Alfredo. Forks up. Moderate. 1608 W. 35th St. 453-4330.

Italian Garden Restaurant. Serving hearty, traditional red-sauce food around town for almost four decades. From its current strip-center location, expect four-course dinners with chicken minestrone soup, salad, a mini cheese pizza and entrees such as sausage and cheese cannelloni or beef scaloppine served with lasagna. Forks up. Moderate. 14611 FM 1325. 388-1062.

Malaga Tapas & Bar. This Spanish-style tapas and wine bar offers diners an alternative. They can eat lightly, two or three plates at a time, across a broad spectrum of meats and vegetables, ending at any point when they are pleasantly satisfied. Moderate. 208 W. Fourth St. 236-8020.

Romeo's. The cozy Italian cafe has quietly edged across the sometimes hazy line between casual and fine-dining spots, with upgraded service, free valet parking and a piano-bar ambience. Its moderately priced menu features good pastas (grilled ravioli or shrimp over linguine), pizzas (try the one topped with sausage and meatballs) and desserts. Moderate. 1500 Barton Springs Road, 476-1090.

Siena. Produces an authentic taste of Tuscany in an exquisite meal that showcases executive chef Harvey Harris at the top of his form. Can't-miss dishes include the wild boar appetizer, ravioli stuffed with spinach and artichokes, boneless lamb loin and wood-grilled salmon. Expensive. 6203 N. Capital of Texas Highway, Building B. 349-7667.

MEXICAN

Azul Tequila. Tex-Mex in the truest sense of the word, Azul offers 'platos del interior,' dishes that reflect their Mexican roots, on one side of the menu and 'platos Tejanos,' items that stem from the Texas border, on the other. While the chicken fajitas from the Tejano items were good, the interior dishes were enticing, particularly the chile relleno stuffed with pork, almonds, onions and raisins and topped with almond-tomato cream sauce. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 4211 S. Lamar Blvd. 416-9667.

Baby Acapulco. When chicken soup is the prescription, head here for a flavorful, well-seasoned, lightly spiced broth that is packed with pieces of chicken and melted cheese. The Mexican restaurant also has an extensive offering of starters and specialty items. Forks up. Cheap. 1705-A S. Lakeshore Blvd. 447-1339.

Cilantro's Mexican Restaurant. This tiny, seven-table restaurant makes up in flavor what it lacks in size. Delicious dishes include the chori huevos (a breakfast item made with over-easy eggs and chorizo salsa), the fish fillets topped with fried garlic, the heated salsa and the homemade flan. Forks up. Cheap. 1025 Stassney Lane, 707-1207.

Freebirds World Burrito. Built-at-the-counter burritos tasty and thick with fresh ingredients. Diners choose the size, type of tortilla, regular fillings, main ingredient, sauces, freebies and extras. The prices are reasonable, and the tacos and quesadillas are just as good. Forks up. Cheap. Hancock Shopping Center, 41st and Red River streets. 451-5514.

La Feria. We started with the quesadilla, and followed with the combination fajitas, vegetarian enchiladas and a chimichanga. The fajitas (chicken and beef) were tender and mild. The enchiladas — one was filled with fresh spinach and the other with poblano peppers — were topped with green sauce and melted Monterey Jack cheese. The chimichanga was filled with ground beef and pico de gallo and covered with melted cheese and green sauce (one of four choices). All were enjoyable. Forks up. Cheap. 2010 S. Lamar Blvd. 326-8301.

Mexico Lindo. The queso vegetariano was a large chafing dish of Monterey Jack cheese with sautéed spinach and mushrooms. The puerco adobado was thin slices of pork in a mildly spicy red sauce with black beans, rice and avocado. The agujas clasicas featured tender pieces of beef fajita grilled on skewers with tomatoes, bell peppers, onions and mushrooms. All were good. Forks up. Cheap. 1816 S. Lamar Blvd. 326-4395.

Nuevo Leon. The large, airy, longtime Tex-Mex restaurant in East Austin serves generous portions of tasty fare. Good entrees include the steak Tampiqueño (a tender, 8-ounce sirloin steak topped with ranchero sauce) and the shrimp Saltillo, with grilled, butterflied shrimp in a tasty sauce. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 1501 E. Sixth St. 479-0097.

Tacodeli. The tacos are delicious. Beef. Pork. Chicken. Vegetarian. Each was over the top with flavor. My only complaint is the limited seating (about a dozen stools), which makes Tacodeli more of a take-out than a dine-in place. Open for breakfast and lunch. Forks up. Cheap. 1500 Spyglass Drive at Barton Skyway. 732-0303.

PIZZA

Brick Oven. It doesn't get much better than this: a crisp, thin, golden crust baked in a 100-year-old, wood-fired oven that imparts a light smoky flavor to the bread, with a good layer of sauce and mozzarella. Toppings involve imagination and advance work — lots of roasted portobello mushrooms and prosciutto, with lightly distributed dollops of melted Gorgonzola that echo the other Italian flavors without overwhelming the pie. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 1209 Red River St. 477-7006.

North by Northwest. The featherweight crust is finished with robust toppings, including the traditional, with sausage, mushrooms, onions, mozzarella and homemade marinara sauce, and the artichoke, with pesto, marinara, sun-dried tomatoes, roasted red peppers, artichoke hearts and fresh mozzarella. Forks up. Moderate. 10010 Capital of Texas Highway N. 467-6969.

SEAFOOD

Finn & Porter. Executive chef Christopher Bauer is producing fare good enough to make his place at the new Hilton hotel a dining destination for locals. Delicious items include the prime porterhouse steak, lobster and crab cakes. A downside: The restaurant is too noisy on a busy night. Expensive. 500 E. Fourth St. 482-8000.

Truluck's. A reliably good place for fresh seafood in the Warehouse District. Recommended dishes include the hot and crunchy trout, bacon-wrapped shrimp, crab cakes and buttermilk-soaked calamari. Moderate/expensive. 400 Colorado St. 482-9000.

SOUTHWESTERN

Iron Cactus. This modern Mexican restaurant is much-improved, with sophisticated cuisine found at few other places in the area. Appealing dishes include the ahi tuna ceviche, carne asada con adovo (thin slices of zestily seasoned prime sirloin) and Yucatán fish tacos. Try the delicious refried black beans. Cheap/moderate. 10001 Stonelake Blvd. 794-8778.

STEAKHOUSES

Backstage Steakhouse. They might call it Backstage, but chef Raymond Tatum's food deserves a spotlight. Vibrant dishes include the crab cakes, the jalapeño corn cake with crawfish, the spinach salad with poached pears and goat cheese, the rack of pork with pineapple chutney, and the prime strip steak served with onion rings. Moderate/expensive. 21814 W. Texas 71 in Spicewood. 264-2223.

Cedar Grove Steakhouse. As the name suggests, the menu is strong on tasty beef (especially hand-cut steaks), served with a choice of 13 sides. But that doesn't mean all other courses are secondary. The luscious lavender-white chocolate cheesecake, made by executive chef John Galindo III, was one of the best I've had in years. Moderate. 9595 RM 12, Wimberley. (512) 847-3113.

Cool River Cafe. One of the largest restaurants in Texas combines an upscale steakhouse and bar under one roof. On the meal side, the filet mignon served on a portobello mushroom cap with brandy peppercorn sauce was a winner. Good salads and big desserts augment the steaks. Expensive. 4001 Parmer Lane. 835-0010.

SUSHI

Musashino. Those who avoid sushi because of an aversion to raw seafood can enjoy the cooked forms and do a little comparison tasting at the same time, particularly with eel prepared three ways. This Japanese restaurant is the best sushi spot in Central Texas (perhaps far beyond). Moderate/expensive. 3407 Greystone Drive. 795-8593.

VEGETARIAN

Mother's Cafe and Garden. The blueberry pie at this two-decade vegetarian haven had a housemade nondairy, whole-wheat crust and berries lightly sweetened with fructose. No butter, no refined white sugar, no guilt. The cheese and sour cream kept me from feeling completely virtuous, but I still enjoyed meatless dishes such as queso con chiles and spinach mushroom enchiladas. Forks up. Cheap. 4215 Duval St. 451-3994.

VIETNAMESE

Hao Hao. The Vietnamese menu at this Chinese-Vietnamese spot in far South Austin offers a great change of pace. Delicious dishes include the shrimp with lemongrass sauce, beef with ginger root and the Vietnamese hot and sour chicken soup. Forks up. Cheap. 1901 W. William Cannon Drive. 447-8121.

The Tea House. Despite a menu with more than 200 dishes, this Chinese-Vietnamese spot never loses sight of each individual dish. Delicious choices included the simmering pork in a clay pot, the spicy lettuce wraps and the young duckling with ginger root. Forks up. Cheap. 13376 Research Blvd., Suite 100. 335-0935.