XL Food & Drink

Central Texas Barbecue Guide - the listings

Sauce, smoke and sides at more than 50 places

By Dale Rice
AMERICAN-STATESMAN RESTAURANT CRITIC
Wednesday, June 07, 2006

Artz Rib House. Meat and live music are an inviting duet at this laid-back barbecue joint. A slab of baby back ribs brings small pork ribs that are fall-off-the-bone tender, with a crisp, almost caramelized exterior and a juicy interior. The fiery tortilla soup will get your attention as well. 2330 S. Lamar Blvd. 442-8283.

Bee Cave B-B-Q. Texas and U.S. flags fly in front of this small blue trailer just west of Loop 360, where wooden cable spools and sawed logs act as tables and chairs. The pork ribs are full of smoky flavor, without the blackened exterior typical of many joints. 6220 FM 2244. 306-9040.

Ben's Longbranch Barbecue. Ben Wash is back smokin' more than a ton of meat a week, including mutton, pork butt, pork ribs, sausage and brisket at his longtime joint in East Austin. Good sides include the hearty pinto beans and the sweet-tangy cole slaw. 900 E. 11th St. 477-2516.

Bertram Smoke Haus. Dark, crisp, well-seasoned skin covers great flavored chicken. Homemade sides include "country style taters": sliced potatoes cooked in butter with onions and bell peppers on the pit. 110 E. Texas 29, Bertram. (512) 355-2302.

Bert's Bar-B-Q. Founded by the late Bert Johnson in 1970 on Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard, the family-owned chain puts out a nice variety of 'cue, including chicken, brisket, beef ribs, pork ribs, turkey and sausage. 3563 Far West Blvd., No. 109. 345-2378. Other locations: 610 W. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd. 474-2613. 1200 S. U.S. 290. 288-7879.

Big John's Bar-B-Que Steak Barn. Between Llano and Burnet, this Friday-to-Sunday barbecue spot produces brisket with a deep, smoky flavor. You can practically taste the coals. Homemade sides include a nonsweet potato salad. 1431 Texas 29, Buchanan Dam. (512) 793-2261.

Big Oak Bar-B-Que. Consistently good across the board, this joint delivers great chicken, pork ribs, brisket, turkey, chopped beef and pulled pork. Homemade sides include a sweet cole slaw, lightly spicy beans and a fabulous potato salad with parsley and red onion. 210 S. Main St., Buda. 312-1947.

Black's Barbecue. Customers wait patiently to go through the slow, cafeteria-style line to select cold salads and hot items to go with the meats, such as smoky pork loin or fatty brisket. Operating since 1932, this joint claims to be the oldest barbecue spot in Texas continuously owned by the same family. 208 N. Main St., Lockhart. (512) 398-2712.

Buster's BBQ. Located in the Veterans of Foreign Wars Post 4443 near Texas 71, this joint knows how to ply the smoke and the home cooking. The "pork H bomb" features jalapeños and garlic stuffed in the loin, and the vinegary pulled pork is extremely tender. Homemade sides include broccoli salad and peach cobbler. 3927 RM 620 S. 263-3999.

Cartwright's Bar-B-Q. The smoking imparts a beautiful red border that runs across the top of each slice of tender brisket. On the eastbound access road of Texas 71, this joint also has a drive-through for when you have to grab it and go. 490 Texas 71, Bastrop. (512) 321-7719.

Chisholm Trail Lockhart B-B-Q & Hot Sausage. Walk through the cafeteria-style line with cold salads (such as broccoli, carrot, pea and potato) and hot items (beans and macaroni and cheese, for example) and then select the meat to complete the plate. The moist, juicy half chicken is a good choice. 1323 S. Colorado St., Lockhart. (512) 398-6027.

City Market. One of the granddads of Texas barbecue joints, this spot delivers its no-forks, no-plates fare in an old-fashioned, unadorned way, which lets the meats speak for themselves. And these tender meats can shout from the rooftops: We're pretty darn good. 633 Davis St., Luling. (830) 875-9019.

Cooper's Old Time Pit Bar-B-Que. There are eight pits outside the door at this acclaimed barbecue joint in Llano, one of the most famous in Texas, where the pitmasters smoke big, thick pork chops (which they will dip in sauce at your request) to go along with the jalapeño sausage, brisket and ribs. 604 W. Young St., Llano. (325) 247-5713.

County Line on the Lake. The classiest of the local barbecue joints, County Line turns out some of the best beef ribs you can find in the area, as well as delicious chicken. Don't pass up the secret-recipe white bread with honey butter. This one sits on the edge of Lake Austin. 5204 RM 2222. 346-3664.

County Line on the Hill. This spot has the same meat and sides with a different view: the hills west of Austin. 6500 W. Bee Cave Road. 327-1742.

Crosstown BBQ. The small but very tasty beef ribs featured an exterior that was virtually caramelized. The brisket was moist and tender — even in the late afternoon — at this small joint that's a block off Main Street in downtown Elgin. 202 S. Ave. C, Elgin. (512) 281-5594.

Donn's Bar-B-Q. The standout at this spot is the pork loin, which remains tender and juicy even at the end of the lunch hour. Homemade sides include potato salad, coleslaw and beans. 10003 FM 969. 928-0229.

Donn's Texas BBQ. Behind the Albertson's at the Y in Oak Hill, this joint serves moist and tender pork ribs and jalapeño sausage. For the sides, Donn's gives diners an opportunity to go sweet (the cole slaw and baked beans) or savory (the potato salad and pinto beans). 7001 Oak Meadow Drive. 288-4060.

Green Mesquite BBQ & More. The emphasis is on the "More," with chicken-fried steak, tacos, chef's salad, grilled chicken, chicken tenders, a vegetable platter, catfish and jambalaya to augment the good barbecue plates. 1400 Barton Springs Road, 479-0485. Second location: 7010 Texas 71 W. 288-8300.

Inman's Kitchen. You've got to drive past the famed Cooper's to reach this one, where the turkey sausage and pork ribs remain moist even near the end of the day. Homemade sides include a sweet vinegar cole slaw, bread made on-site (white, wheat and Bavarian) and pies. 809 W. Young St., Llano. (325) 247-5257.

Iron Works. This historic spot just east of the Austin Convention Center has a great atmosphere. Dine inside or on the patio overlooking Waller Creek. Juicy chicken, peppery pork loin and moist brisket are among the combo-plate possibilities. 100 Red River St. 478-4855.

J&J BBQ & Catering. On RM 1431 just off of U.S. 183, this is one of the few spots to offer beef ribs, which are big, juicy and fatty. Sides include a homemade creamy potato salad. 300 W. Whitestone Blvd., Cedar Park. 918-0314.

John Mueller's Old Town Barbeque. Sitting practically in the shadow of the Bastrop County Courthouse, John Mueller is producing the same great meats and homemade sides he formerly turned out in Austin. The beef rib, with its charred crust, is a thick piece of tender meat on a wide bone. 705 Pine St., Bastrop. (512) 308-9818.

Kreuz Market. At this no-forks Lockhart legend, it's all about well-seasoned meat and the smoky goodness a wood fire imparts. There's no sauce to distract a diner, and no potato salad or cole slaw to get in the way, either. In a concession to the times, however, there's an optional side of beans. 619 N. Colorado St., Lockhart. (512) 398-2361.

Laird's BBQ. In the business 30 years, 15 at this location, Kenneth Laird learned the trade under Llano's legendary Tommy Cooper. Laird, who puts in 18 to 19 hours on a Friday, turns out brisket that has a distinctly crisp, charred exterior that gives way to moist, tender beef. 1600 Ford St., Llano. (325) 247-5234.

Louie Mueller Barbeque. Named one of the top 25 barbecue joints in the world by Steven Raichlen in "The Barbecue! Bible," Louie Mueller in Taylor comes with a deep-smoked ambience and beef ribs that are amazing, with tender, moist meat under a dark crust. Go early; they often run out of items by midafternoon. 206 W. Second St., Taylor. (512) 352-6206.

Luling Bar-B-Que. This spot makes a coarse-grind, all-beef sausage and a jalapeño version that is as hot as it is fabulous; just crank up the heat and keep on eating. The pork ribs are flavorful, and sides include a creamy, smooth potato salad. 709 E. Davis St., Luling. (830) 875-3848.

Meyer's Elgin Smokehouse. The fourth generation of the Meyer family still piles good barbecue on butcher paper 25 miles east of Austin. The smoky, tender and tasty meats include pork garlic sausage, beef sausage, pork ribs, turkey and brisket. 188 U.S. 290, Elgin. (512) 281-3331.

Mike's Barnyard BBQ & Fresh Meat Market. Order at the small walk-up counter next to the meat cases. They'll slice the brisket to your request from the lean or the fatty side. Even the lean is flavorful and moist. 13850 Texas 29, Liberty Hill. (512) 778-5100.

Miss Mae's Bar-B-Q. Named for the late rancher who opened a barbecue joint on the square in Wimberley in the early 1980s, Miss Mae's delivers tender meats — such as the brisket used in the sliced beef sandwich — and homemade sides that include a nonsweet potato salad. 419 FM 2325, Wimberley. (512) 847-9808.

Opie's B.B.Q. Stop at the pit outside to choose among the ribs, pork loin, chicken, sausage and brisket. The baby back ribs with the sweet and spicy sauce are great — tender and moist — but be prepared for the fire that lingers well after the last bite. 125 Spur 191, Spicewood. (830) 693-8660.

Pok-e-Jo's Smokehouse. Lean applies to the tender brisket and the finely textured homemade sausage here. The sides, some of which are unusual for a barbecue joint, include broccoli salad, baked potato casserole and green bean casserole. 1603 W. Fifth St. 320-1541. Other locations: 1202-C N. Interstate 35, Round Rock. 388-7578. 9828 Great Hills Trail. 338-1990. 4109 S. Capital of Texas Highway (Loop 360). 440-0447. 2121 Parmer Lane, 491-0434. 1000 E. 41st St., No. 400. 302-1200.

Railroad B-B-Q. Thinly sliced brisket is nearly fall-apart tender, with a subtle smoky flavor. The ribs, coated with a sweet glaze, are moist and tender. 2360 FM 1626, Manchaca. 282-3288. Second location: 107 E. Center St., Kyle. 262-4641.

Riley's Bar-B-Q. Thick-cut, rosy slices of pork loin are moist and tender. Homemade sides include a vinegar-style cole slaw and deviled eggs with plenty of onion in the filling (quite tasty, I might add). The sign out front makes it clear the joint is Harley friendly: Bikers Welcome. 1111 U.S. 290 W., Dripping Springs. (512) 858-9493.

R.O.'s Outpost. This place alone is worth a road trip, with delicious smoked ham and smoked pork loin sandwiches on Kaiser rolls. Homemade sides include smoked barbecue beans and pies (the coconut cream, with its tall pile of sweet meringue, is a winner). Plus, this is one of the few barbecue joints with wait service. 22112 Texas 71 W. (at Hazy Hills Drive), Spicewood. (512) 264-1169.

Ruby's Barbeque. Besides the flavorful brisket, smoked chicken, sausage and pork ribs, this spot just north of the University of Texas campus goes well beyond traditional barbecue fare with homemade dressings, a variety of beans, a chicken salad sandwich and vegetarian jambalaya. 512 W. 29th St. 477-1651.

Rudy Mikeska's Bar-B-Q. One of the most prominent family names in Texas barbecue, Mikeska's still smokes brisket for 10 hours over oak and makes spicy pork sausage from the same recipe the family has used since the 1940s. There's also lamb, ham, pork ribs and chicken among the offerings. 300 W. Second St., Taylor. (512) 365-3722.

Rudy's Country Store & Bar-B-Q. There's plenty of country kitsch to go along with the regular sausage, which has a little zing, and the smoked pork loin with its distinct peppery coating. 2451 Capital of Texas Highway (Loop 360). 329-5554. Other locations: 11570 Research Blvd. 418-9898. 7709 FM 620. 250-8002. 2400 N. Interstate 35, Round Rock. 244-2936.

Salt Lick. This rustic spot in Driftwood still gets my nomination for the best all-around barbecue experience, with piled-high platters of brisket, sausage and ribs and sides of a vinaigrette-style cole slaw, beans and an unusual potato salad. RM 1826, Driftwood. (512) 858-4959.

Salt Lick 360. This has the same barbecue as the original — trucked over from Driftwood. But there are many other more upscale items on the menu at this location in Davenport Ranch. 3801 N. Capital of Texas Highway (Loop 360). 328-4957.

Sam's Bar-B-Que. There are many places where you can find barbecue after midnight, but at Sam's in East Austin, it's available until 2 a.m. Sundays through Thursdays and 3 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Tender meats include mutton, and there are homemade sides to round out the plate. 2000 E. 12th St. 478-0378.

Smitty's Market. For more than 100 years, barbecue has been smokin' on this site, which spent most of that time as Kreuz Market. Now, Nina Schmidt Sells has Smitty's, where the sausage hasn't changed — either the recipe or the way it's made. Walk by the fire that feeds the pit and make your choice, including lean (shoulder clod) or fatty (brisket) beef. 208 S. Commerce St., Lockhart. (512) 398-9344.

Smokey Mo's Bar-B-Q. Tall bottles of barbecue sauce — one regular, one hot — sit on the tables at this little joint on the side of the Texaco Express Mart near Texas 29 and U.S.183. The sliced turkey brings plenty of smoke and black pepper to the palate. 717 S. U.S. 183, Liberty Hill. (512) 515-0668. Other locations: 100 E. Whitestone Blvd., Cedar Park. (512) 528-0500. 1601 S. Interstate 35, Round Rock. 828-4050.

Southside Market & BBQ. This is the home of "Elgin hot sausage," which actually isn't nearly as hot as it used to be. It was tamed down in the 1970s when some of the red pepper was removed to widen its appeal. Paired with the baby back ribs, the sausage makes a tasty lunch plate. 1212 U.S. 290 W., Elgin. (512) 281-4650.

Stubb's Bar-B-Que. Equal parts barbecue joint and music club, Stubb's serves a variety of meats, including a turkey breast that has been smoked on the bone for 16 hours before being pulled and cut. Less-than-typical sides include serrano pepper-cheese spinach and collard greens. 801 Red River St. 480-8341.

Taylor Café. Now in his 80s, Vencil Mares still turns out brisket, chicken, sausage and pork ribs good enough to win awards and merit mention in national publications. Homemade sides include beans and potato salad at this little joint, tucked away "under the bridge," where Texas 95 crosses Second Street in Taylor. 101 N. Main St., Taylor. (512) 352-8475.

Texas Rib Kings. They could call it the Chicken King, too, because the barbecued chicken breast is remarkably moist and tender, and so tasty that it doesn't even need a drop of the restaurant's own tangy barbecue sauce. 9012 Research Blvd. 451-7427.

Wilhite's B-B-Q. Attached to Wilhite's Country Store and gas station at FM 1327 and FM 1625, this limited-hours joint serves tender brisket and pork ribs with plenty of smoky flavor. 4903 FM 1327, Creedmoor. (512) 787-3740.

Zimmerhanzel's Bar-B-Que. Made daily, the all-beef sausage is some of the best in Central Texas. With the fat trimmed away before grinding, the sausage was full of flavor rather than grease. Homemade sides included sweet macaroni salad and cole slaw. 307 Royston St. (Loop 230), Smithville. (512) 237-4244.