XL Food & Drink

Brisket, our brisket, all hail the mighty plate

By Dale Rice
AMERICAN-STATESMAN RESTAURANT CRITIC
Wednesday, June 07, 2006

Is there anything more Texan than a slice of brisket?

The Lone Star State's history and culture seasons that piece of beef as much as anything infused by fire or spice. Cowboys and cattle helped build Texas, and the chuck wagon cooks who accompanied those trail drives embraced a smoky tradition that has continued to waft up through two centuries.

Now, that smoke encompasses pork, turkey and chicken. There are modern twists, such as turkey sausage, and Mexican influences, such as jalapeño-stuffed pork loin and chipotle sausage. The plate also is filled with tantalizing sides, some traditional, some not.

Ultimately, though, there's something about barbecue that reaches beyond the food to touch people of all ages and backgrounds.

"It's an experience that goes from generation to generation," says Nina Schmidt Sells, owner of Smitty's Market in Lockhart. "That's part of the draw."

Barbecue draws devotees the way the pit pulls in the smoke and heat, adding a distinct Texas flavor to our lives.