XL Food & Drink

The Sample Plate

By Dale Rice
AMERICAN-STATESMAN STAFF
Tuesday, February 07, 2006

AMERICAN

Cafe 1626. A popular family spot with a video game arcade. The burger/pizza joint on Manchaca Road 1 1/2 miles south of Slaughter Lane offers good burgers, subs, lasagna and a moderately priced, all-you-can-eat pizza buffet. Forks up. Cheap. 11600 Manchaca Road. 440-1626.

Texas Chili Parlor. Legendary chili with an adult rating. From 'X' — for beginners — patrons can move on to 'XX' or even 'XXX' (sample at your own risk). It's the traditional Lone Star chili. No trendy flavors. Just good old-fashioned beef, tomatoes and chili powder in a bowl. But a bowl isn't the only way to carry it. Freida's chili enchiladas are covered with it, as is the chili cheeseburger. The black bean and sausage chili (made with Elgin hot sausage) is a milder alternative. Forks up. Cheap. 1409 Lavaca St. 472-2828.

Texicalli Grille. A laid-back place papered with musical and political memorabilia, offering a variety of salads and sandwiches. Try the Don Cornello, with grilled pork tenderloin, provolone cheese, mayonnaise and red cabbage on a French roll with a homemade pickle mix, or the Texicalli, with thinly sliced beef, grilled onions, mushrooms, jalapeños and Jack cheese. Forks up. Cheap. 534 E. Oltorf St. 442-2799.

Threadgill's. Still turning out homestyle fare worthy of an out-of-town visitor. From meatloaf to a five-vegetable plate (with 27 options to choose from), Threadgill's has the taste to match its status as a local institution. Forks up. Cheap. 301 W. Riverside Drive. 472-9304.

AMERICAN BISTRO

Banderas: A Texas Bistrot. Overall, the food at this Renaissance Hotel restaurant is delightful, artfully presented and sophisticated. Unfortunately, the service and the lobby ambience can't keep pace. Excellent tapas-style dishes included the venison loin, lamb chops, quail, Bibb salad and prickly pear cheesecake. Moderate. 9721 Arboretum Blvd. (in the Renaissance Hotel). 795-6100.

Cafe Josie. The zesty flavors of the 'American tropics' sail especially well on the fruits of the sea. Excellent lobster cakes, shrimp potstickers and trout with blue crab salad are a few of the dishes that make the small cafe one of Austin's best seafood spots. Expensive. 1200-B W. Sixth St. 322-9226.

Chez Zee. There is a comforting consistency in the food and the attitude here. It's a welcoming place where you feel at ease lingering over coffee and desserts that are among the best in the city, such as the coco leches, lemon-rosemary and chocolate decadence cakes. For starters, you can't miss with the chicken Gorgonzola pizza. Moderate. 5406 Balcones Drive. 454-2666.

Monzi's Fine Cuisine. Here are two good reasons to make a stop in Giddings: the lovely 1870s ambience and the delightful fare of Monzi's. Good dishes include the shrimp Diablo and fried green tomato appetizers and the Atlantic salmon and lamb chop entrees. Moderate. 155 W. Austin St., Giddings. (979) 542-2201.

Palmer's. A solid, upscale respite in a town full of college-oriented eateries. Tasty dishes included the penne pasta with sun-dried tomatoes and cream sauce and the habanero-honey glazed pork chops. For an unusual dessert, try the tiramisu with bananas. Moderate. 218 Moore St., San Marcos; (512) 353-3500.

ASIAN

Buffet Palace. The dozens of Asian dishes at the sleek, minimalist building where the Westgate Theater once stood are a mixed bag. The hot and sour soup and baked mussels were disappointing, while the teriyaki chicken and eggrolls were acceptable. The salmon and eel sushi, as well as the baked salmon and tempura vegetables, were worth a second trip. Forks up. Cheap. 4608 Westgate Blvd. 892-1800.

Mongolian Grille. Meals are a bargain and the routine is simple. Diners file along a buffet table, piling raw ingredients — vegetables and paper-thin slices of meat (beef, pork or chicken) — in their bowls. They add the makings for the sauce and hand the dishes to a chef who stir-fries them on a huge, round grill. Served with white rice and bread, it's a wholesome meal. Forks up. Cheap. 117 San Jacinto Blvd. 476-3938.

BARBECUE

Bert's Bar-B-Q. After more than 30 years, Bert's appears to have turned the art of barbecue into a science. Each of the meats — chicken, brisket, beef ribs, pork ribs, turkey and sausage — was tender and moist, an unusual experience, particularly late in the lunch hour when many places are serving meat that has begun to dry out. Forks up. Cheap. 3563 Far West Blvd., No. 109. 345-2378.

County Line. Loaded with juicy, tender meat and dripping with barbecue sauce, the huge beef ribs were about as good as you could hope to find in Central Texas. If they don't fill you up, a chicken combo plate will, with smoky chicken, tender brisket and flavorful sausage with a couple of sides. Have some of the sweet, secret-recipe white bread to get started. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 5204 RM 2222. 346-3664.

Donn's Texas BBQ. The only difficulty at Donn's is finding it; it's behind the Albertson's at the Y in Oak Hill. There you'll find good Texas barbecue, including tender and moist brisket, pork ribs, jalapeño sausage and chicken. Forks up. Cheap. 7001 Oak Meadow Drive. 288-4060.

CAFES

Cafe 290. Good home-style cooking a few minutes east of Austin in Manor. The lunch buffet has daily changing entrees, such as Wednesday's chicken pot pie and chicken fried steak. The appetizer of fried green tomatoes is hard to beat, and the homemade desserts are inviting. Forks up. Cheap. 11011 U.S. 290 E., Manor; 272-4212.

Red River Cafe. The food fits the ambience: simple, tasty fare that is reasonably priced. Favorites include the patty melt with grilled onions, chicken breast stuffed with cream cheese and topped with mushrooms, the made-daily soups and the homemade key lime pie. Forks up. Cheap. 2912 Medical Arts St. 474-8609.

Star Seeds. Offers round-the-clock service and wireless Internet near the University of Texas, with basic food that still tastes good, such as the veggie omelet with sautéed mushrooms, onions and cheese, in addition to a variety of pancakes, including blueberry-pecan cakes the size of a dinner plate. Forks up. Cheap. 3101 N. Interstate 35. 478-7107.

CHINESE

Asia Chinese Restaurant. The Vietnamese sliced beef with lemon grass and chiles was an honest-to-goodness plate of fire. The amazingly tender beef, which had been stir-fried with onions and serranos, was so hot it made the top of my head sweat and my eyes water. Forks up. Cheap. 1931 E. Ben White Blvd., Suite 300. 445-5117.

Chinatown. Owner Ronald Cheng's 'chef's specialties' include Hunan duck rolls, rabbit in orange sauce and 'two little lambs' (one sweet, the other spicy). The atmosphere is upscale, with red and black walls, red lacquered chairs and tables covered in white linen. Cheap/moderate. 3407 Greystone Drive. 343-9307.

CONTINENTAL/FRENCH

Bistro 88. Hypercreative chef and co-owner Jeff Liu can't stop twisting dishes until he's achieved new levels. He's done that again with a ceviche that includes Cointreau and cranberry juice. Other outstanding offerings at the Euro-Asian restaurant include duck, pork chops and shrimp-and-crab cakes. Moderate/expensive. 2712 Bee Cave Road. 328-8888.

Bordeaux's. This new upscale restaurant in the heart of Kyle combines Cajun and Continental influences. Tasty dishes include a wonderful smoked pork chop, a butternut squash soup finished with cream and white wine, fried strips of portobello mushroom and chocolate cake. Moderate/expensive. 108 Center St., Kyle. (512) 268-3463.

Jeffrey's. Great service and captivating cuisine keep Jeffrey's among Austin's top-performing dining spots. Enticing dishes include a pork-stuffed Anaheim chile with a porcini-St. André cheese sauce, a lamb T-bone with a cherry port sauce, and the succulent duck and shrimp pairing. Expensive. 1204 West Lynn St., 477-5584.

DELIS

Hog Island Italian Deli. Send your tastebuds to the Northeast by devouring sandwiches popular in that part of the country. Hog Island offers a great Philly cheese steak, with melted cheese, shaved beef and grilled onions on a soft bun, and tasty hoagies featuring a variety of Italian cold cuts, such as mortadella and soppressata. Forks up. Cheap. 1612 Lavaca St. 482-9090.

Katz's Deli. A virtual institution in this city, the 24-hour deli continues to serve good food. In addition to the thick sandwiches and a good burger, try some of the dinner specials, such as the open roast beef sandwich or the half roast chicken (both with two sides). Forks up. Cheap. 618 W. Sixth St. 476-3354.

ITALIAN/MEDITERRANEAN

Al Capone's Italian Kitchen. A great place for an old-fashioned red-sauce fix. Start with fried beef ravioli or sausage wrapped in eggplant topped with marinara and provolone. For a main course, the large, breaded veal Parmesan came with salad and spaghetti. The misto plate included cannelloni with spinach and beef, spaghetti with meat sauce, eggplant Parmesan and lasagna. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 2601 Interstate 35, Round Rock. 238-7666.

Carrabba's Italian Grill. With an impressive level of service, particularly for families, this should be a chain of choice for Austin diners. Excellent appetizers include the fried calamari and mussels steamed in white wine, while the veal Marsala and chicken-filled 'mezzaluna' ravioli are tasty entrees. Moderate. 6406 N. Interstate 35 (Lincoln Village). 419-1220.

Cipollina. A neighborhood, Italian-style deli owned by Jeffrey's with a case full of prepared items — from pasta to meat to pricey side dishes — that can be heated on the spot for lunch. It also makes a thin-crust pizza more like that of Italy than most places. Forks up. Moderate. 1213 West Lynn St. 477-5211.

Milto's Pizza Pub. Whether your pizza preference is thick or thin, Milto's can meet it. The Neapolitan offers a thin, crisp, flavorful crust, while the Sicilian has a thick, crisp-exterior, soft-interior crust. Both had generous toppings. Beyond pizza, there's a pasta lunch special that includes garlic bread, iced tea, a salad and a roll for one low price, as well as a few Greek items, such as feta- and cream-cheese tyropitas. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 2909 Guadalupe St. 476-1021.

Reale's Pizza and Cafe. There's more than good pizza at this Italian restaurant in far Northwest Austin. The lasagna and veal piccata entrees were tasty, and the cannoli, a classic dessert, was delicious. Forks up. Moderate. 13450 N. U.S. 183. 335-5115.

360 Uno. This Italian cafe's tasty pizza had a crust that was baked to an even, medium brown and was a bit thicker, softer and chewier than the thin, crisp style I tend to think of as Italian. 360 Uno also features a range of pastas and desserts imported from Italy. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 3801 Capital of Texas Highway (Loop 360), No. G-100. 327-4448.

JAPANESE

Shogun. A South Austin neighborhood alternative to high-design Japanese show restaurants. The fresh, clean-tasting sushi included large yellowtail and tuna portions, and the spicy salmon skin and eel rolls shared accolades with the unusual 'tiger eyes' roll, with salmon and avocado inside a thick cover of grilled squid. Crisp shrimp tempura, sweet beef short ribs and pan-fried gyoza rounded out the experience. Moderate. 1807 W. Slaughter Lane, No. 225. 292-1580.

Tokyo Teppan. A welcome addition to an area of the city that has little sophisticated dining. Serving a wide range of Japanese appetizers, sushi and entrées cooked tableside on hibachi grills. The sushi is on a par with that of many of the city's better restaurants, and there's a substantial entertainment factor in watching the chef manipulate food on the grill. Moderate. 7010 Texas 71 W., No. 200; 288-3788.

MEXICAN

Amaya's Taco Village. There's more than the name implies here. Besides great tacos, made from thick, large, golden corn tortillas, Amaya's serves tender fajitas and tasty carne guisada. Forks up. Cheap. 5405 N. Interstate 35. 458-2531.

Angie's Mexican Restaurant. The line at lunch is often long, especially on Wednesdays (rib day) and Thursdays (the carnitas special), but owner Angie Quintero keeps it moving by asking those in line to order before they're seated. Don't pass up the thick, homemade corn tortillas, which transform the fajitas and tacos into something special. Forks up. Cheap. 900 E. Seventh St. 476-5413.

Berryhill Baja Grill. There's a wide range of food to enjoy at this Houston-based spot. Tasty options include the grilled fish tacos, grilled beef tacos, tempura fried chimichanga filled with shrimp, and the spicy corn enchiladas. Forks up. Cheap. 3600 N. Capital of Texas Highway, 327-9033.

Evita's Botanitas. A break from typical Tex-Mex. Start with the salsas. Four very hot ones: black bean chipotle, garlic red, lime-based tomatillo and roasted pepper. One moderate: fresh tomato and cilantro. Then step up to the next level with entrees such as jalapeño-stuffed, bacon-wrapped shrimp in chipotle sauce. Forks up. Cheap. 6400 S. First St. 441-2424.

Inocente's Cafe. Operating on the East Side since 1985. The salsa, with a tomatillo base, is incredibly spicy. The chili con queso was thick and clingy. The green enchiladas and beef enchiladas were fairly dry, without a lot of sauce (a big change from those that swim in gravy). Those are the nuances that make a place like Inocente's enjoyable. Forks up. Cheap. 2337 E. Cesar Chavez St. 479-0218.

Joe's Bakery & Coffee Shop. Open for more than 60 years, Joe's Tex-Mex menu emphasizes beef. But don't stop with an enchilada or carne guisada plate. Indulge in the Mexican cookies and pastries from the bakery. Forks up. Cheap. 2305 E. Seventh St. 472-0017.

La Casita. This recently relocated spot turns out tasty food, including beef fajita nachos (which include grilled onions) and pollo piki piki, a dish of sliced chicken breast in a spicy red sauce with spinach and mushrooms. Forks up. Cheap. 1519 W. Anderson Lane. 469-0105.

Tacodeli. The tacos are delicious. Beef. Pork. Chicken. Vegetarian. Each was over the top with flavor. My only complaint is the limited seating (about a dozen stools), which makes Tacodeli more of a take-out than a dine-in place. Open for breakfast and lunch. Forks up. Cheap. 1500 Spyglass Drive at Barton Skyway. 732-0303.

PIZZA

Brick Oven. It doesn't get much better than this: a crisp, thin, golden crust baked in a 100-year-old, wood-fired oven that imparts a light smoky flavor to the bread, with a good layer of sauce and mozzarella. Toppings involve imagination and advance work — lots of roasted portobello mushrooms and prosciutto, with lightly distributed dollops of melted Gorgonzola that echo the other Italian flavors without overwhelming the pie. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 1209 Red River St. 477-7006.

Romeo's. Seafood steps to the fore at Romeo's, where the shrimp pizza is one of the few in town offering a saltwater topping. The soft crust held grilled shrimp (nicely cooked and amply distributed) with pesto, roasted garlic, sun-dried tomatoes, red onion, red peppers, pepperoncini and smoked mozzarella. Forks up. Moderate. 1500 Barton Springs Road, 476-1090.

Rounders Pizzeria. One of the few places in Austin with a good New York-style pizza. The pies there have a crisp crust, ample sauce and abundant cheese, just like in the Big Apple. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 1203 W. Sixth St. 477-0404.

SEAFOOD

McCormick & Schmick's Seafood Restaurant. Bringing a big name to the city, with a national reputation built around a substantial menu of fresh fish that changes twice daily: lunch and dinner. Tasty entrees include sea scallops, halibut and shellfish in an amazingly zesty tomato sauce. Expensive. 401 Congress Ave., 236-9600.

Truluck's. A reliably good place for fresh seafood in the Warehouse District. Recommended dishes include the hot and crunchy trout, bacon-wrapped shrimp, crab cakes and buttermilk-soaked calamari. Moderate/expensive. 400 Colorado St. 482-9000.

SOUTHWESTERN

Hudson's on the Bend. The best destination in this region of the country to feast on the flavors of the Southwest. Outstanding ways to enjoy the tastes of the area include the duck diablos (little nuggets of rolled duck with jicama, jalapeño and figs), elk enchiladas with mole and white chocolate-tomatillo sauces and beef tenderloin with a guajillo sauce. Expensive. 3509 RM 620 N., 266-1369.

Iron Cactus. This modern Mexican restaurant is much-improved, with sophisticated cuisine found at few other places in the area. Appealing dishes include the ahi tuna ceviche, carne asada con adovo (thin slices of zestily seasoned prime sirloin) and Yucatán fish tacos. Try the delicious refried black beans. Cheap/moderate. 10001 Stonelake Blvd. 794-8778.

STEAKHOUSES

Backstage Steakhouse. They might call it Backstage, but chef Raymond Tatum's food deserves a spotlight. Vibrant dishes included the crab cakes, the jalapeño corn cake with crawfish, the spinach salad with poached pears and goat cheese, the rack of pork with pineapple chutney, and the prime strip steak served with onion rings. Moderate/expensive. 21814 W. Texas 71 in Spicewood. 264-2223.

Ruth's Chris Steak House. Steak is the unrivaled star at this locally owned link in the venerable national chain. The best meat in town, the aged prime beef is delivered to the table on a 500-degree platter with sizzling butter. The one thing that rises nearly to the heights of the steaks is the atmosphere, a sophisticated, art deco remake of the old Scarbrough's men's department. Expensive. 107 W. Sixth St. 477-7884.

Texas Land & Cattle Co. Combines a relaxed approach with upscale touches. The spinach and artichoke dip was a spicy version of the popular appetizer. My companion ordered the cowgirl's rib-eye and I selected the silver spur filet. Both steaks, grilled over mesquite, were tender, moist and cooked to order. Moderate. 1101 S. MoPac Blvd. (Loop 1). 330-0030.