The Main Course

Fino

Foxes' Granite Cafe replacement off to a fabulous start

By Dale Rice
AMERICAN-STATESMAN RESTAURANT CRITIC
Thursday, January 26, 2006

It's tough enough to operate one restaurant successfully. That's why a restaurateur's second or third location often leads to trouble.

There is, however, a new example of how to do things right: Emmett and Lisa Fox's Fino, their second restaurant and the upscale replacement for the longtime Granite Cafe.

The Foxes, whose Asti is a big hit in the Hyde Park neighborhood, moved beyond Italy in their new spot on the edge of Pemberton, with a menu that spreads across more of the Mediterranean, including Spain, France, Italy, Greece and Morocco.

But it's not the expanded menu that is making their second location a success; it's the way in which the food is prepared, plus the snappy service, sophisticated ambience and the Foxes' attitude that the restaurant isn't just about them. They're quick to give credit to chef Tristan White, general manager Brian Stubbs and wine director Boris Krouse, underscoring that teamwork is what makes most restaurants work.

From the kitchen, in the tradition of Spanish tapas, Fino offers many "small plates" that serve as starters, some with a mild touch and others that turn up the heat. On the mild side, an appetizer platter ($8.50) featured roasted eggplant dip, hummus and tatziki (a blend of yogurt and cucumber) with grilled pita bread, while the spanakokeftedes ($7) brought individual globes of spinach and dough, a spin on spanakopita, the traditional spinach pie of Greece.

As for hot, the fried calamari ($6.50) was beautifully prepared, with the big, thick rings and tentacles of squid dusted heavily in smoked paprika that gave it a zesty punch even without dipping in the spicy tomato aioli. The meatballs ($8) — six the size of large marbles — were served in a pool of spicy tomato sauce that was garnished with red chile flakes for as much zing as a diner could tolerate.

For the main course, the grilled lamb chops ($21), served on a long, narrow, oval white plate, delivered a simple, but perfectly executed dish with two tender chops in a Romesco sauce, a mound of lightly sauteed spinach and a wedge of delicious, crusty potato gratin.

The cod and clams ($18) combined braised Icelandic cod and little neck clams with an olive tapenade and a fennel and onion confit.

The least expensive of the entrees, the coq au vin ($15.50) enveloped the soul of heartiness, with fall-off-the-bone-tender chicken and juicy wine-soaked mushrooms served over a light, housemade spaetzle. It was the dish I'd go back to eat tomorrow.

For dessert, the dense, rich, flourless chocolate torte ($7) was accompanied by chestnut ice cream from Teo's, the Italian gelato shop a few blocks away.

The baklava ($7) was a decadent Greek honey-nut-pastry confection: A large disk of fabulous baklava was crowned with Teo's pistachio ice cream.

Service at Fino was impressive, both in its attentiveness and in the speed with which dishes appeared from the kitchen. Plus, our server was willing to steer us toward and away from dishes, a trait that I adore.

The makeover of the space has transformed the old Granite Cafe into a sleek spot divided in half by a bar on one side and a communal table on the other, both of which contribute to the lively feel of the restaurant. The remodeling also retained one of my favorite patios for outdoor dining.

That atmosphere might be outstanding, but it's the food, service and teamwork that are the ultimate keys to a restaurant's success, and those ingredients are mixing so well that Fino might be the best three-star restaurant in Austin.

drice@statesman.com; 445-3859