Food & Drink: Thanksgiving

Cornucopia

Give the staple of the first Thanksgiving an update with a bushel of unexpected recipes

By Kitty Crider
AMERICAN-STATESMAN FOOD EDITOR
Tuesday, November 14, 2006

Corn is the essential American food, the one that began here, that stayed poular here and nourished all who came here, says Elisabeth Rozin in her book "Blue Corn and Chocolate."

Granted, it took some settlers a while to embrace corn — they thought it more fodder for livestock than humans — but the grain is a mainstay today.

Not surprisingly, corn comes on strong for Thanksgiving Day, especially in the Southwest. From corn bread dressing to corn relish to corn casseroles, the kernels shine on menus. And it is not uncommon in Texas for corn to show up in more than one preparation on the holiday table. Or in more than one form in a dish. Z'Tejas corporate chef Jack Gilmore, for instance, stirs five kinds of corn into his favorite dressing for family and staff.

While fall does not bring the plethora of fresh corn that is stocked in the summer, it is available in stores, as is frozen and canned corn. Today, we offer some new and traditional corn dishes to plant on your table for the holidays.

Autumn Succotash

Edamame, that popular green soybean, puts a contemporary spin on succotash.

2 slices thick-cut bacon (about 2 oz.), chopped
1 shallot, finely chopped
2 cups fresh edamame or thawed frozen edamame or one 10-oz. package frozen baby lima beans, thawed
1 lb. frozen corn kernels, thawed
1/4 cup water
Salt and pepper to taste
1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley

Heat heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Add bacon and sauté until fat begins to render, about 1 minute. Add shallot and sauté until bacon and shallot begin to brown, about 3 minutes. Add edamame, corn and 1/4 cup water and cook until vegetables are tender, about 5 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to bowl and sprinkle with parsley. Serves 8.- 'Bon Appetit' magazine

Corn Relish

This warm relish, a tumble of healthy veggies, complements turkey roasted, fried or smoked.

6 cups corn on the cob, about 6 to 8 ears

Salt and pepper, to taste
1 cup red onion, small dice
1 cup red bell pepper, seeded and diced
3 cups black beans, cooked
1 cup poblano chile, seeded and diced
1 jalapeño, seeded and minced
Salt and pepper to taste
Olive oil, as needed
1/2 cup cilantro, washed and chopped

Preheat the grill. Place on it the cleaned and silked corn cobs. Grill until husks are charred evenly, turning over frequently. Allow to cool. Cut the corn kernels and reserve in a mixing bowl.

Add red onions, bell pepper, black beans and poblano chiles, jalapeños to the bowl and mix thoroughly.

Heat 1 1/2 Tbsp. of olive oil in a hot sauté pan and add the corn relish. Season with salt and pepper. Add chopped cilantro to finish. Serve warm. Serves 12. - Larry Perdido, Moonshine restaurant

Tamale and Jalapeño Corn Bread Dressing

Jack Gilmore of Z'Tejas closes his restaurant on Thanksgiving Day, but he bakes this favorite dressing for his family and staff. It's packed with vegetables, including corn in five forms.

6 Tbsp. butter
1 1/2 cups chopped onion
1 1/2 cups chopped red bell peppers (stemmed and seeded)
2 cups chopped poblano peppers (stemmed and seeded)
3 large jalapeños, stemmed, seeded and chopped
1 Tbsp. chopped fresh sage or 4 tsp. dried sage
1 1/2 Tbsp. dried oregano
6 cups crumbled corn bread (one recipe for 9-inch-by-13-inch pan)
3/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1 1/2 cups crumbled corn chips (tostadas)
1 1/2 cups frozen corn kernels, thawed
3 cups chicken stock
1 1/4 cups canned cream-style corn
1 dozen pork tamales, unwrapped, chopped in 1-inch chunks
Salt and pepper to taste

Melt butter in heavy large skillet over medium heat. Add onions, bell peppers, all chiles, sage and oregano. Sauté until vegetables are tender. Transfer to a bowl with corn bread. Mix in cilantro, corn chips, corn kernels, cream-style corn and heated chicken stock. Add tamales at the end and do not break up. Salt and pepper to taste. If stuffing is too dry, add a little melted butter.

Place dressing in a buttered 9-inch-by-13-inchbaking pan. Cover with foil and bake dressing in a preheated 325-degree oven for 45 minutes. Remove foil and bake another 15 minutes, until brown. Serves 12. - Jack Gilmore, Z'Tejas restaurant

Pecan Corn Pudding
1 can cream-style corn (1 1/2 cups)
1 cup yellow cornmeal
1 cup melted butter (2 sticks)
3/4 cup buttermilk
1 large onion, chopped
2 eggs, beaten
1/2 tsp. baking soda
2 cups shredded sharp cheddar cheese
3 chopped jalapeño peppers
1 cup toasted pecan pieces (optional)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Mix all ingredients except cheese, peppers and pecans. Pour half of the mix into a 8-inch-by-8-inch baking dish. Cover with cheese and peppers and 1/2 cup pecans. Pour remaining batter on top. Sprinkle with remaining pecans. Bake one hour or until brown on top and sides pull away. Cut into squares and serve warm as a veggie or bread. Serves 8.- A handed-down Texas recipe

Sopa de Elote (Corn Soup)

This soup is adapted from a recipe by Diana Kennedy in her classic first cookbook, "Cuisines of Mexico." As the original menu consultant for Fonda San Miguel, she shared many of her well-researched, authentic recipes. Corn soup was one of the first breakout dishes to create a following for the Austin restaurant, and it has maintained its popularity.

4 cups fresh corn kernels, cut and scraped from 5 or 6 ears of corn, or about 2 10-oz. packages of frozen corn kernels, thawed
4 1/2 cups milk
1/4 cup butter, softened
1 tsp. sea salt
2 poblano chiles, roasted, peeled, seeded, and diced
6 Tbsp. shredded Monterey Jack cheese
6 corn tortillas, cut into thin strips and fried crisp

Combine corn and 1 cup of the milk in a blender. Purée at high speed until smooth; set aside. In a heavy, 3-quart nonreactive stock pot, heat the butter over medium heat until melted and bubbly. Add the corn purée and cook over medium heat for about 5 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the remaining 3 1/2 cups milk and the salt; bring mixture to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer for about 15 minutes, stirring to avoid sticking. In each of 6 warm soup bowls, put 1 tablespoon each of the diced chiles and shredded cheese. Ladle the hot soup into the bowls and garnish with a few tortilla strips. Serves 6.- 'Fonda San Miguel: Thirty Years of Food and Art'

kcrider@statesman.com; 445-3656