Food & Drink

Diva of the kitchen

Bobby Flay, meet local radio host, author Angela Shelf Medearis. She just might outgrill you

By Kitty Crider
AMERICAN-STATESMAN FOOD EDITOR
Wednesday, July 12, 2006

Walking like a runaway train, Angela Shelf Medearis is cooking a Caribbean dinner on grills in the park at Circle C for family members and friends. In her bright floral summer dress, she calls out greetings to guests as she and her husband Michael pull together a menu of jerk chicken, West Indies fish, rice salad, roasted corn, watermelon fruit basket and a whole snapper stuffed with cornbread dressing.

"My family can eat!" she proclaims.

Medearis, who calls herself the Kitchen Diva, is in her element as her production company and a crew from the Food Network videotape the 11 a.m. gathering on a Friday in May. The Food Network will be including her on a new show, "Culinary Claim to Fame." Or, at least, that is what she has been told.

Suddenly a familiar personality in a green shirt and jeans walks up to her grill in the park. It's Bobby Flay. THE Bobby Flay, New York chef and Food Network superstar.

The Diva squeals. She flutters. She stops talking — only for a second — when he challenges her to a jerk chicken cook-off, right then, on the spot. It's for a new Flay series called "Throwdown!"

"I'm ready," says Medearis. "I've been ready 18 years!"

With one flip of the grill tongs, the Kitchen Diva has hit the big time.

As Flay and his culinary SWAT team unload the heavy artillery — multiple 36-inch new grills, batches of spices, even a food processor and knife block from a truck — Medearis talks trash. "We are going to take him down!"

All the while she is trying to figure out how to hold her meal, which she had just finished, in prime condition for an hour as he cooks his chicken.

The crowd of about 50, with a little prodding from the production crew, for the camera, chants, "Diva! Diva! Diva!"

And the Diva, who insists later "I didn't have a clue," keeps talking, ribbing Flay, calling him "Robert," even though they had just met.

"She is a mess!" her mother Angeline Shelf says with fondness in her voice. Medearis had caught the show's attention by responding to a Web site pitch for people making a "culinary claim to fame." "I was watching the Food Network one Saturday and there was a recipe I wanted. I went to download it and saw the ad. I told them I enjoyed researching African American contributions to history and had written cookbooks. I sent it in two days before the deadline."

On deadline day, the show called her and said they were considering her for a profile. That was the first of many calls, photograph sessions of her and her food, and videotaping of her at work and at other locations. She was told later that the show had received thousands of applicants.

Kim Williams, director of programming for Food Network, says "Angela Shelf Medearis was picked because of her flamboyant personality, her excellent cooking skills and her deep desire to teach others about the origins of African American cuisine. She personified the perfect balance of knowledge and passion for food, and her enthusiasm made her a very entertaining character."

But Flay did not know what a character he was taking on until the episode what shot, the Food Network says.

As Medearis worked the scene at the park, Flay laughed and quipped, "Maybe they will give you my show."

The Diva would like that. She already has her own weekly radio food show on KAZI (88.7 FM, Sundays at 12:30 p.m.).

Next month she will be investing her time and money in taping two pilot shows for PBS for what she hopes will be a 13-segment series on whole foods, organics and healthful eating. She is already planning a companion cookbook for the series.

"This series concept is driven by my trying to get my health in order," says Medearis, 49. "We have a history of diabetes and heart disease in my family. We want to be pro-active healthwise. There are a lot of mistakes I want to avoid with my grandchild (Anysa, 13)."

The Diva, who has been well-known in Austin as a children's book author for the past 18 years, now has more things cooking than an Iron Chef on the clock. She is president of Diva Productions, her own 12-member company. She is a co-founder with her husband of a nonprofit literacy organization called Book Boosters Inc. She has written four cookbooks: "The African-American Kitchen," "A Kwanzaa Celebration," "Ideas For Entertaining From The African-American Kitchen," and "The Ethnic Vegetarian."

She is the author of 80 children's books that have sold 10 million copies, 32 of which are featured on a line of animated DVD's. She works as a reading consultant and author for the Scholastic Inc. Programs. And she has produced several educational videos for children.

Medearis even has kids in mind as she creates her PBS pilot, mixing in animation in the form of "Here's Okra," a colorful host veggie interviewing an eggplant with issues.

She says the audience her pilot is targeting with her own production company is "the middle America thing."

Her company is housed in a five-room office suite off Ben White Boulevard. There, the Diva records her 30-minute weekly radio show "Inside and Out." The show is comprised of three 10-minute segments — the Kitchen Divas, Body Basics or Attitudes, and Choices with local pastor Salem Robinson Jr.

Medearis and her alter ego, Agnes Wilson, the world's oldest living home economics teacher, are the Kitchen Divas. They have tackled topics from tofu to watermelon since the show hit the air at the end of 2005. Agnes, in a whiny voice, is the mind-speaking challenger; Medearis, the patient explainer. "Agnes," says Medearis before a recording session, is "my grandmother, my mother, every little black church lady I have known."

Medearis records the show in a 4-foot-by-6-foot cubicle, with two mikes, a music stand for a script holder and "the magic of a computer." She reads her dialogue first and then goes back and becomes Agnes, taking about an hour to record the 10-minute segment, which includes information about foods, nutrition and a recipe — but no actual cooking on air.

Rob Chamness, audio/video editor, and one of the seven full-timers on staff, says chopping and editing the weekly show will take 1 to 1 1/2 days.

Medearis considers the show a public service, not a money-maker. "I'm not looking for radio to pay anything. That's why we have to be grant-funded," she says. "Even though the Kitchen Divas are funny, there is medical information in it that is crucial to the nonwhite community."

She's not complaining. "Doing a cooking show is like not even working. I cook because I love it. Cooking is the same creative process as writing or painting. There is immediate gratification."

When she married as a college freshman, she says she was not much of a cook. That skill and appreciation has come with experience.

She credits her success with children's books for making the cooking shows possible. Among those books are "Picking Peas for a Penny." "We Eat Dinner in the Bath Tub," "The Ghost of Sifty Sifty Sam" and "Seven Spools of Thread." Her latest book is "Chester's Casa," by Scholastic Inc., for distribution to children in foster care.

She also has written the award-winning story, "Daisy and The Doll," and several other books about African American arts and Texas history with her husband, Michael, an executive with Diva Productions.

"We make enough to pay the bills," says the Circle C homeowner. "And more. I'm not living in a tent." But she still has to make financial choices.

She has never been to Africa, although she has written much about historical African American dishes. "Africa went down the aisle . . . with a very nice train," she says of her only child's wedding. Maybe some day. . .

That's the Diva — frank, funny and full of food plans for the future.

But first she has to show that Bobby Flay fella what it means to mess with the Diva.

THE KITCHEN DIVA'S CARIBBEAN-STYLE PICNIC

Jamaican Jerk Chicken
1/3 cup olive oil
1/3 cup distilled white vinegar
1/2 cup orange juice
1/2 cup lime juice
1/2 cup molasses
1/4 cup soy sauce
1 bunch of cilantro, chopped
4 green onions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 Scotch bonnet, serrano or Thai bird chile, seeded and minced
3 bay leaves
3 peppercorns
1-inch piece cinnamon stick, crushed
2 Tbsp. ground sage
1 Tbsp. ground thyme
1 Tbsp. ground allspice
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1/2 tsp. fresh ground nutmeg
5 lb. chicken pieces

Combine the oil and vinegar in a medium glass bowl. Stir in the orange and lime juice, molasses, soy sauce, cilantro, green onions, garlic, chile, bay leaves, peppercorns, cinnamon stick, sage, thyme, allspice, pepper, and nutmeg.

Place the chicken pieces in a large baking dish and pour the spice mixture over them, coating each piece well. Cover with plastic wrap and place the chicken in the refrigerator to marinate 12 hours or overnight, turning once.

Allow the chicken pieces to come to room temperature before grilling. Heat the grill until the coals are somewhat white with ash; the flame should be low. Place the chicken on the grill and cover with the grill lid. Place remaining marinade in a saucepan, bring to a boil and boil for several minutes before using as a basting sauce. Grill chicken for 30 to 35 minutes, turning pieces to cook evenly. Baste pieces with remaining marinade. Yield: 6 to 8 servings. - Angela Shelf Medearis

Caribbean Stuffed Red Snapper
3- to 4-lb. whole red snapper
1 lime, quartered
Salt for rubbing the fish

Stuffing:
1 cups bread crumbs
1 cup cornbread crumbs
1 cup crumbled Ritz crackers
3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) butter, melted
4 Tbsp. chopped chives
4 Tbsp. chopped parsley
1/4 to 1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper
1 small onion, chopped
5 cloves of garlic, minced
Zest and juice of 1 small lime
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. white pepper
1 tsp. dried thyme
1 tsp. dried sage
1 tsp. dried sweet marjoram

Wash the fish and rub inside and out with the quartered lime and salt. Refrigerate for at least 10 minutes. Wipe off the lime juice and salt. Preheat the oven to 300 degrees or prepare the barbecue grill. Combine all the stuffing ingredients and fill the cavity of the snapper. Wrap the stuffed fish in foil. Bake or grill the fish until the flesh is opaque, allowing about 10 minutes to the pound. Do not overcook.Yield: 6 to 8 servings.- Angela Shelf Medearis

Spicy West Indies Fish
4 lb. filleted snapper
1 1/2 cups freshly squeezed lime juice
1 Tbsp. curry powder
1 Tbsp. ground cumin
1 Tbsp. paprika
1 Tbsp. allspice
1 Tbsp. powdered ginger
1 Tbsp. ground sage
1 Tbsp. salt
1 Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper
2 to 3 bay leaves per fish fillet
1 medium red onion, thinly sliced
Virgin olive oil or cooking spray

Soak the fish in lime juice for 30 minutes in a glass pan or noncorrosive dish. Remove the fish, reserving the juice. Combine the curry powder, cumin, paprika, allspice, ginger, salt, black pepper and cayenne pepper in a small bowl and stir until well-blended. Place two or three bay leaves topped by a fish fillet on an individual sheet of aluminum foil. Coat each fillet with the spice mixture. Sprinkle a tablespoon of the lime juice over each piece of fish. Place a mound of onion on the top of each fillet. Wrap each fillet tightly in the foil.

Remove the rack from the grill and lightly oil it with vegetable oil where the fish will be placed. Make a fire in the grill and cook for 5 minutes. Turn the fish packets and cook for another 3 minutes. Open a packet to see if the fish is done. The flesh should be opaque and the skin should pull away from the flesh; flakiness is usually a sign of overcooking.

Yield: 8 servings.- Angela Shelf Medearis

Honey-Grilled Vegetables
12 small red potatoes, halved
1/4 cup honey
3 Tbsp. lime juice
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tsp. dried thyme, crushed
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
2 zucchini, cut into quarters
1 medium eggplant, sliced 1/2-inch thick
1 green bell pepper, cut vertically into eighths
1 red bell pepper, cut vertically into eighths
1 large yellow onion, sliced into 1/2-inch thick pieces

Scrub potatoes to remove any dirt. Prick all over with a fork. Microwave the potatoes on high for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the potatoes are fork tender but firm. Combine the honey, lime, garlic, thyme, salt and pepper in a small bowl and mix well. Brush the vegetables with the honey marinade. Place the vegetables on skewers, if desired.

Lightly oil the grill rack with vegetable oil. Heat the grill until the coals are somewhat gray with ash; the flame should be low. Place the skewered or loose potatoes, zucchini, eggplant, green pepper, red pepper and onion directly on the greased grill. Grill the vegetables for about 10 minutes, brushing them with the honey marinade every few minutes and turning them after 5 minutes. Yield: 8 servings.- Angela Shelf Medearis

Rice Salad
1/3 cup plain low-fat yogurt
1 Tbsp. raisins
1 Tbsp. minced onion
1 tsp. curry powder
1/8 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. black pepper
1/8 tsp. ground turmeric
2 tsp. cider vinegar
1 cup white rice, cooked and cooled
1/4 cup coarsely chopped green bell pepper
1/4 cup coarsely chopped red bell pepper
Lettuce leaves

In a medium bowl, blend the yogurt, raisins, onion, curry powder, salt, pepper, turmeric, and vinegar. Stir in the cold rice and bell peppers. Refrigerate. Serve on a bed of lettuce leaves. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.- Angela Shelf Medearis

Grilled Garlic Bread
1/4 cup virgin olive oil
1 clove garlic, mashed and diced
1 tsp. dried basil
1/2 tsp. dried oregano
8 slices (3/4- inch thick) French bread
1/2 cup shredded mozzarella cheese
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Preheat the grill until the coals are somewhat gray with ash; the flame should be low. Meanwhile, combine the olive oil, garlic, basil and oregano in a small bowl. Brush both sides of the bread with the olive oil mixture and sprinkle one side of the bread with the cheeses. When the coals are ready, place the bread, cheese side up, on the grill. Cover and cook the bread until the cheese melts and the underside of the bread is toasted, 1 to 2 minutes. Serve warm. Yield: 8 servings.- Angela Shelf Medearis

kcrider@statesman.com; 445-3656