Food & Drink

Fingerling potatoes pack a fistful of flavor

By Cathy Thomas
THE ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER
Wednesday, May 10, 2006

Don't be afraid. A fingerling potato might look gnarly, something like a bloated digit sprouted from the hand of a fairy tale witch. But what a fingerling lacks in eye appeal it more than makes up for in flavor and texture.

No doubt that's why these tubers have become a mainstay on menus at chic restaurants. Their unique flavor profiles are part of the pleasure — some taste buttery sweet, while others have a subtle chestnut flavor. A hold-together texture is enticing, too. They keep their shape when cooked, and are generally more suited to moist cooking methods than roasting. Slowly braised or quickly boiled, they soak up even more flavor, enriched by wine or broth, olive oil, herbs and/or spices.

The varieties read like produce poetry: ruby crescents, Russian bananas, purple Peruvians and French fingerlings. Each is about the length of a man's index finger, but varieties vary in shape and color.

Store unwashed fingerlings at room temperature in a dark, cool, airy location, such as in a basket or open paper bag. Do not store in a sealed plastic bag. Wash in cold running water and pat dry before using. Fingerlings have thin skins and are usually cooked and eaten unpeeled. Here are nine delicious ways to enjoy them:

1. Oven braised in wine: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Cut 1 1/2 pounds fingerlings in half lengthwise. In shallow roasting pan, toss spuds with 1 teaspoon coarse salt, 3 tablespoons dry white wine and 3 or 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil. Scatter with fresh thyme (strip leaves from woody stems; discard stems) and toss. Potatoes should be crowded in pan in single layer. Cover and place in middle of oven 20 to 30 minutes or until very tender. Serve immediately or reheat by placing cut side down on heated grill until a golden crust forms (adapted from "The Zuni Cafe Cookbook" by Judi Rodgers, Norton, $35).

2. Keep it simple: Fingerlings are delectable simply boiled, drained and beautifully seasoned. Place 1 1/2 pounds of skin-on fingerlings in a large saucepan. Add enough water to cover spuds by 2 inches and bring to boil on high heat. Lower heat to medium and cover; cook until fork tender, about 15-18 minutes (cooking time will vary depending on potato size).

Drain well and return fingerlings to pan; cook on medium heat about 20-30 seconds (to remove excess water), shaking handle of pan to rotate contents. Remove from heat and toss with 1 to 2 tablespoons butter and 2 tablespoons snipped chives or diced green onion tops. Add salt (or seasoned salt) and pepper to taste; gently toss. Or substitute chopped Italian parsley or fresh basil for chives or onions.

3. Whole fingerlings make tempting scoops for cheese fondue. Boil them unpeeled until fork tender (see boiling instructions), then toss with a smidgen of olive oil. Provide fondue forks or bamboo skewers to aid dipping, and accompany fondue and dippers with bowls of pickled onions, cornichons and olives tossed with orange zest and ground fennel.

4. Finger salad: Fingerlings are ideal for potato salad made in the French style, dressed with garlicky vinaigrette. Pungent greens such as arugula add color and a welcome edge. Boil 1 1/2 pounds unpeeled fingerlings until fork tender (see boiling instructions, but don't add butter, chives, salt or pepper). To make vinaigrette, in medium skillet heat 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil on medium heat; add 6 peeled and thinly sliced garlic cloves and cook until softened (do not brown). Remove from heat and add 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar or raspberry vinegar. Cut fingerlings into 1/2-inch thick slices and place in heatproof bowl. Add vinaigrette and toss; cool. Toss with 3 cups (washed, dried) arugula. Season with salt and pepper to taste (adapted from "The Greenmarket Cookbook" by Joel Patraker and Joan Schwartz, Viking, $29.95).

5. Caviar boats: Warm potatoes, cool crème fraîche (or sour cream) and caviar make a mouthwatering combination. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Cut 3 pounds unpeeled fingerlings in half lengthwise. Toss with 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil and 1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary leaves. Brush large, rimmed baking sheet with 1 tablespoon olive oil and arrange fingerlings cut side down. Season with salt (preferably kosher). Roast until crisp and tender, about 30 minutes, shaking pan occasionally to prevent sticking. Serve warm or at room temperature with a bowl of crème fraîche (or sour cream) and a bowl of caviar (adapted from Gourmet magazine).

6. Fingerling "home fries": Cookbook author Jack Bishop likes to pair these spicy fingerlings with egg dishes. Cut 1 1/2 pounds fingerling potatoes in half lengthwise. Heat 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil in a large, deep skillet (preferably nonstick) on medium heat until shimmering. Add 3 medium garlic cloves (minced), 1 teaspoon chili powder and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper; cook about 30 seconds (do not brown). Add fingerlings and toss to coat. Cautiously add 1/4 cup water (it may splatter) and salt to taste.

Reduce heat to medium-low, cover and cook, stirring 2 or 3 times, until potatoes are tender, about 25 minutes. If pan dries out before potatoes are tender, add a bit more water. Remove lid and increase heat to medium. Cook until liquid evaporates and potatoes begin to brown, about 2 minutes. Stir in 2 tablespoons minced cilantro and salt to taste (from "A Year in a Vegetarian Kitchen" by Jack Bishop, Houghton Mifflin, $35).

7. Spud tacos: Prepare fingerling home fries (above). After adding cilantro and salt, sprinkle with 3/4 cup shredded cheddar cheese and let cheese melt in partially covered pan. Spoon potato-cheese mixture into center of soft, warm corn tortillas. Fold each into taco shape and top with salsa of choice or finely diced red bell pepper. If desired, garnish with dollop of sour cream.

8. Spaghetti with potatoes, green beans and basil pesto: Boil several fingerlings until fork tender (see No. 2). Cut fingerlings into bite-size pieces. Toss with warm cooked spaghetti and warm cooked bite-sized green beans. Add enough basil pesto (store-bought pesto is fine) to lightly coat pasta and vegetables; gently toss. Taste and season with salt and pepper if needed. If desired, top servings with grated pecorino or Parmesan cheese.

9. Chowder, bouillabaisse-style: This simple soup shows off flavor pairing of fish and fingerlings. It's as easy to prepare as it is delicious (see recipe).

Chowder with saffron and fingerling potatoes
4 thick-cut slices bacon (about 1/4 lb.), cut into thin crosswise strip
1 1/2 cups chopped leeks (white and pale green portions only, about 2 large leeks)
3 (8-oz.) bottles clam juice
1 lb. fingerling potatoes, washed, dried, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick rounds, or if small cut in half lengthwise
1/2 cup dry white wine or water
1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme leaves
1/2 tsp. crumbled saffron threads
1/2 cup whipping cream
Salt and pepper to taste
6 (5-oz.) cod or halibut fillets

Cook bacon in heavy, large pot over medium heat until crisp. Using slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain. Add leeks to pot. Cover and cook until leeks are very tender, stirring frequently, about 4 minutes. Add clam juice, potatoes, wine or water, thyme and saffron. Bring to boil; reduce heat to medium and cover. Simmer until potatoes are just tender, stirring occasionally, about 7 minutes. Stir in cream and reserved bacon. Taste and adjust seasoning, adding salt, if needed, and pepper.

Sprinkle fish with salt and pepper; place atop chowder. Cover and cook until fish is opaque in center, about 10 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer 1 fillet to each of 6 bowls. Ladle chowder over fish and serve.

Yield: 6 servings. Nutritional information (per serving): Calories 956 (78 percent from fat), fat 82.8 grams, protein 10.1 grams, carbohydrates 42.7 grams, fiber 1.4 grams, sodium 1,231 milligrams, calcium 18 milligrams.
— Adapted from Bon Appetit magazine