New Mesón just needs a tweak in presentation

Nobody stumbles across the original El Mesón. If you've had the pleasure of enjoying lunch at the small taqueria on Burleson Road, it's most likely because you were looking for it. Or possibly lost heading to or from the airport.

The fact that the simple counter-service restaurant set in the industrial sprawl of southeast Austin has been open for more than 10 years serves as testament to the quality of chef Marisela Godinez's food.

When Godinez was a child growing up in Mexico City, her father would travel for business and bring back tales of culinary creations from around the country, which Godinez's mother would synthesize with her own personal cooking style. Her mother's recipes, served today at El Mesón, reflect what Godinez calls "regional homestyle" cuisine.

Godinez met her husband, Yves Macias, when the two worked as waiters at Manuel's on Congress Avenue in the early '90s before serving in the same capacity at Fonda San Miguel in the late '90s. The legendary Austin restaurant inspired Godinez to serve her family's brand of authentic Mexican cuisine. Godinez, Macias and his brother Atticus opened El Mesón Taqueria on Burleson Road in January 2001.

After almost a decade serving a loyal following, Godinez and the Macias brothers decided to polish the restaurant's work boots and head into the center of town, where their interior Mexican food could be appreciated in a more formal, and easier to find, setting.

In May 2010, they expanded to South Lamar Boulevard and opened El Mesón Cocina Mexicana and Tequilería amidst a burgeoning restaurant row that now includes Uchi, the Highball, Olivia, Sazon and El Mesón's parking lot neighbor, Barley Swine. The move to the old stone building that once housed Hayward Neon has brought increased visibility to the wonderful cooking that drew visitors to the original location, but the larger space and transition to table service has provided a few challenges.

Meals begin with a small complimentary seasonal plate. Lately they've been offering a sweet mango sliced "hedgehog" style — cubes carved in the open face of the fruit for convenient picking. The lagniappe provides a nice touch not typically expected at a modestly priced restaurant, but could be seen as a slight smoke screen for having to pay for chips and a trio of salsas ($2.99).

As for those chips, they live up to their bill(ing). Not simply paper-thin excuses for consuming massive amounts of melted Velveeta, these firm dark yellow totopos resemble the corn from which they come and are as thick as rush-hour traffic on Lamar. They are used best for scooping bold homemade guacamole ($6.50). Flecked with bits of finely chopped tomato, diced onion and fresh cilantro that almost hide in the deep green dish, the guacamole relies predominantly on the rich, oily flavors of the fatty Mexican fruit.

You might want to leave the chips on the table when the ceviche Acapulqueño ($9.50) arrives. Purple cabbage provides color and crunch to a dish that is most fully enjoyed with a fork. Chunks of fresh tilapia are punctuated with bright herbs and chopped tomatoes in a tangy citrus that is mellowed by feathered slices of avocado that look like a parakeet's wing.

Any meal at El Mesón should include the restaurant's best appetizer, the taquitos de camaron al pastor ($6.50). The three fist-sized homemade corn tortillas cradle grilled achiote-marinated shrimp that look like meaty Rainier cherries. Small bits of pineapple provide a tropical tang that initially masks a fresh punch of shrimp aftertaste. Those looking for a little fire to go with the mild dish can use the spicy and creamy avocado salsa verde that lends a harmonious blend of soothe and sear. The more pedestrian spinach taquitos ($5.75) feel like an afterthought compared to the sensational shrimp.

Vegetarians will not feel left out, however, once they discover the chile ancho relleno ($13.99). The dried ancho pepper maintains its form on arrival, but the pierce of a fork makes it ooze with a warm, creamy mixture of goat, cotija and Monterey jack cheeses. Pinenuts and onions provide crunch to the light cream sauce, while dried cherries and a chunk of tomatillo trumpet sweet and tart notes that make the dish explode with flavor.