10 great upscale dishes

TOBACCO CREAM DESSERT/UCHIKO

Executive pastry chef Philip Speer makes desserts for both Uchi and its new satellite Uchiko. This Uchiko exclusive brings together the flavors of scotch, tobacco, chocolate and berry: `I use a pretty high-quality Venezuelan tobacco, and I literally just chop up the cigar and put it into the cream. And I let it infuse overnight, so it gets that really rich tobacco flavor that numbs your lips a little bit. Then with that I make gel out of it using agar-agar (a gelling agent). The calcium in the cream reacts with sodium alginate, which is what I put in the scotch to coat the cream. With that I did these candied pecans. I started thinking leather and tobacco shops, so I went really strong on the vanilla in the pecans. They smell to me like a smokeshop.' Huckleberry paper, maple-vanilla budino (like a pudding) and deep chocolate sorbet finish the dessert. 4200 N. Lamar Blvd. , No. 140. 916-4808 , www.uchikoaustin.com .

AVOCADO TRES LECHES CAKE/URBAN AN AMERICAN GRILL

Chef Mizael Saucedo has the chance to make this hotel restaurant more than just a restaurant in a hotel. This cake is a start. The avocado adds a little color and texture, backed up by crème fraîche with the raisiny tang of sun-dried tomato. 11301 Domain Drive at the Westin hotel. 490-1511 , www.urbanatthedomain.com .

CALAMARI SALAD/ANNIES CAFÉ & BAR

Fried calamari - especially tossed with arugula, fried lemon and fried rings of cherry and banana pepper - sells itself. But toss it with rosy-cheeked sriracha dressing and it's a salad fit for Annies' cosmopolitan elán. 319 Congress Ave . 472-1884 , www.anniescafebar.com . (Reviewed 8/09: 8.5 out of 10)

CHARCUTERIE PLATE/PÉCHÉ

This cocktail cathedral (owner Rob Pate got himself ordained) is also particular about its food, down to an ever-changing array of cured meats and pâtés made in house. The plate might include cured duck breast, creamy duck liver mousse and an aromatic rabbit rillette. It's a sinful indulgence. 208 W. Fourth St . 495-9669 , www.pecheaustin.com . (Reviewed 5/10. 7.9 out of 10)

CUBANO SANDWICH/LA SOMBRA BAR & GRILL

A humble ham-and-cheese Cubano raised to crescendo with buttery pulled pork and cucumbers with the vinegary defiance of the freshly pickled is a good sign of things to come from this dashing Peruvian newcomer. 4800 Burnet Road . 458-1100 , www.lasombra-austin.com .

FOIE GRAS NIGIRI/UCHI

This is the `Perfect Bite,' as chefs Tyson Cole and Pau Qui would say. Seared liver with sweet fish caramel on a pearl of rice. It's a taste of clean iron and sweet, marbled umami with an eHarmony afterglow. 801 S. Lamar Blvd . 916-4808 , www.uchiaustin.com . (Reviewed 7/10: )

OLIVIA BENEDICT/OLIVIA

The early afternoon light is more flattering to Olivia's progressive angles than the night could ever be. It's a sun porch where you can explore chef James Holmes' farm-to-table ethic and savor this dish of fork-tender shredded flatiron beef with poached eggs on a bakery-caliber biscuit with rich hollandaise. 2043 S. Lamar Blvd . 804-2700 , www.olivia-austin.com .

OYSTERS OCTAVIA/JEFFREY'S

One of the first waves Deegan McClung made when he took over as chef at Jeffrey's in 2009 was to bang on a trash can like a drill sergeant to wake up the oysters. In his hands they get sea-salt potato chips, a little tomato vinaigrette and a shot of bacon to go with the hot tidal taste of the fried oysters. Carry on. 1204 West Lynn St. 477-5584 , www.jeffreysofaustin.com . (Reviewed 8/10: )