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Critic's picks: Austin food trailers

Don't let the wheels fool you: These carts pack in a lot of flavor and flair per square inch

Cazamance, on Rainey Street, serves up African-influenced fare such as stir-fried chicken with peppers and olives in a bread bowl.
Mike Sutter photos AMERICAN-STATESMAN
Cazamance, on Rainey Street, serves up African-influenced fare such as stir-fried chicken with peppers and olives in a bread bowl.

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By Mike Sutter

AMERICAN-STATESMAN RESTAURANT CRITIC

Updated: 1:10 p.m. Wednesday, March 16, 2011

Published: 3:25 p.m. Tuesday, March 15, 2011

Bar-B-Q Heaven (Seventh and Red River streets, 945-8970): Glenn Simms sees his big blue-and-white trailer as part-restaurant, part-mission, a way station where after-hours party people can have a sandwich and a bottle of water and think about their next move. If you're going to remember one part of your Sixth Street bender, let it be the smoked bone-in pork chop. Simms and his brother, Darrell, also smoke brisket, ribs and even turkey legs.

The Best Wurst (Two locations on East Sixth Street, one near San Jacinto Boulevard, one at Red River Street, www.thebestwurst.com ): The little cart with buzz-satisfying grilled brats, onions and sauerkraut. Also try the jalapeño sausage and curry ketchup.

Bits and Druthers (1001 E. Sixth St. at the East Side Drive In. 361-850-0645, www.facebook.com/BitsAndDruthers): A British-style fish-and-chips and ice cream trailer. A sturdy paper bouquet of fries and fish with a side of slaw is $9.

Cazamance (90 Rainey St. 844-4414, www.facebook.com/Cazamance ): A softly lit courtyard oasis in the Rainey Street crush. African-influenced food, including stir-fried chicken with peppers and olives in a bread bowl and whole, frosty coconuts.

East Side King (behind the Liberty bar at 16181/2 E. Sixth St.; behind the Grackle at 1700 E. Sixth St.; www.eastsidekingaustin.com): The brainchild of three cooks at Uchi. At the Liberty, the trailer works with pork belly kimchee on steamed buns, fried beets and Thai fried chicken. At the Grackle, the King specializes in yakitori grilling. It's chef-level food for about $8.

El Naranjo (85 Rainey St. 474-2776): Interior Mexican food, exterior seating. Outstanding tacos include crunchy fish with cabbage and subtle chipotle cream, cochinita pibil with pickled onions or nopales tacos with tender cactus and tomato. Plus fried molotes stuffed with chorizo or plantains and black beans.

Flip Happy Crepes (401 Jessie St. 552-9034, www.fliphappycrepes.com): The cool aunt of all mobile Austin crêpe operations isn't afraid to blast your fillings out with flavor, like with the garlicky kick of a crêpe stuffed with moist roasted chicken, goat cheese and sweet caramelized onions. Be prepared to wait.

G'Raj Mahal Cafe (91 Red River St., 480-2255): Part trailer, part Indian pavilion, part backlit mirage when the serpentine bicycle dragon glows at night. A full Indian menu, with curries, biryanis, tandoori meats and Goan specialties. Need a nightcap? Take the short walk to Rainey Street.

Gourdough's (1219 S. Lamar Blvd. www.gourdoughs.com): An Airstream doing gourmet doughnuts with bacon, fried chicken, fruit and chocolate. Take the Porkey's: Canadian bacon, cream cheese and jalapeño jelly make this a savory-sweet exercise in late-night rationalization: Sure, it's a doughnut, but the protein makes it, like, an energy bar, right? Right?

Kebabalicious (East Seventh and Trinity streets and 211 Congress Ave. 468-1065, www.austinkebab.com ): Hot, crisp and fresh, it's good food regardless of your Sixth Street state of mind. The falafel wrap starts with soft, steaming pita, then adds fried nuggets of spiced garbanzo beans, lettuce, tomato, tangy tzatziki sauce and, because this is Austin, jalapeño hummus.

La Boite Cafe (1700 S. Lamar Blvd. 377-6198, www.laboitecafe.com): French pastries, sandwiches and deep-thinking coffee smuggled to South Austin in a plain white shipping container. The almond croissant carries the lush factor of an entire coffee cake.

Lukes Inside Out (1109 S. Lamar Blvd., next to the Gibson bar, 779-7489): Music caterer Luke Bibby (Willie Nelson, Austin City Limits Festival) makes sandwiches with Szechuan fried chicken with sesame slaw, chipotle-rosemary grilled shrimp with blue cheese and honey, even one with chocolate bread, bacon and chocolate cream cheese. Also look for a falafel-influenced veggie burger and "Armadillo eggs": potatoes wrapped in bacon with spicy sauce.

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