Dining: Olmecas

Don't be deceived by décor at delicious Olmecas

By Dale Rice
American-Statesman Restaurant Critic
Web posted: Oct. 26, 2005

	Olmecas' migas combine fried strips of tortillas, eggs, onions and jalapeņos in a version that emphasizes the eggs much less than at many other restaurants.
	Who needs a soda when you can have horchata, center, or aguas frescas, such as Jamaica, left, and piņa, right, some of the beverages served at Olmecas.
	The Pechuga Olmeca, a stuffed-chicken entree, is one of the dishes that deviate from what's served at many local Mexican restaurants.
Photos by Rodolfo Gonzalez/AA-S
Olmecas Mexican Restaurant 2121 E. Oltorf St. (512) 440-0809 Rating: Forks up. Price: Cheap.

It sure doesn't feel like a Mexican restaurant.

Then the food arrives, and it's clear to see that Olmecas invested in its kitchen, rather than redecorating to obliterate the signs of previous tenants in this strip mall a few blocks east of Interstate 35.

Home to what it calls "authentic Mexican food," Olmecas produces some dishes that are similar, if not identical, to other local eateries, while putting a more atypical spin on others.

At dinner, the nachos Olmeca ($7.50), for example, were not the usual run-of-the-mill offering. The base — small, triangular, homemade chips — was covered with chile con queso, beans, chopped tomatoes, avocado and exceptionally tasty fajita strips that had been grilled with onions and peppers.

The carne asada ($8.95) was more typical, with a thin, reasonably tender steak topped with nopalitos (strips of cactus) and several grilled green onions. It was served with rice and charro beans that were thick with chopped ham and bacon, unlike any others I've eaten in the area.

The enchiladas Suizas ($6.95), with sides of rice and beans, brought chicken-filled enchiladas blanketed in sour cream, green sauce and melted cheese — a standard item. At breakfast, the migas ($4.25), served with bacon and refried beans, combined fried strips of tortillas, eggs, onions and jalapeņos in a version that emphasized the eggs much less than many other restaurants.

The chorizo and eggs ($3.50), accompanied by potatoes and beans, were much less greasy than many found in the Austin area.

Ultimately, that's what counts: not whether the place looks the part, but what kind of food is on the plate. Olmecas wisely decided to concentrate on what matters.