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River Tracing: Rio Frio 1
The Rio Frio rises among steep, rugged canyons on the ragged southern fringe of the Edwards Plateau southwest of Kerrville.
When we first encountered its tines (forked tributaries) alongside FM 336 in Real County, its river rocks lay liked bleached bones among the bushy ashe juniper. Nothing but fritillary butterflies and buzzards moved in the open-oven heat.
After an exceedingly tortuous descent into the valley (above the settlement of Vance), multiple springs feed the main course of the Frio (actually kind of lukewarm here). Brave bigtooth maples appear. Also a few pecans. Cabins poke out from limestone ledges. Birdsong rises all around us.
Vacation culture ramps up near Leakey, just north of Depression-era Garner State Park, so popular that vehicles queue up for access to the cooling rapids and welcoming weir. Outside the park, every little low-water crossing turns into a swimming, wading or tubing opportunity for those not willing to wait out the crowds at Garner.
Noble cypresses begin to parade up and down the banks. Dark catfish and light, spotted perch dart among the water plants. Even water lilies float atop the quieter eddies. Here, the Frio is the equal of the Guadalupe River at its most alluring.
Yet as soon as we arrive at the village of Concan, not too far below Garner, the Frio begins to fade. Algae collects in shallows. Fish, birds and insects disappear. From the looks of things, the Frio is being loved to death.
More to come …
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