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Austin360 blogs > Out & About > Archives > 2008 > July > 07 > Entry

Scratching the vast surface of Houston

Houston, like Asia, is incomprehensible.

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Although I spent 20 years there and return for frequent visits with friends and family, its vastness slips from my mental grip. Taking a shortcut from my parents’ apartment in the Memorial area, I sheared up 12-mile-long Barker-Cypress Road to discover a host of subdivisions I’d never encountered before. And they clearly were not all new. Also a mammoth Baptist church mixing Las Vegas postmodern design with suburban kitsch. Mega-churches are old news, but I couldn’t help the urge to explore this place that rose out of the flat green of far western Houston like the Notre Dame de la Paix basilica in Yamoussoukro, Cote d’Ivoire. That must wait for another trip.

The thing about Houston, however, is that hidden behind the zillion miles of strip centers are little slices of Nirvana. Took my parents to Bistro Provence on Memorial Boulevard, an unassuming place that served, during a monsoon-drenched lunch, exquisite poached fish, beef stew and salad Nicoise topped by ruby-rare tuna medallions.

Part of the human scenery at this bistro was a couple in their late 50s, I’d guess, dressed in suburban Texan golf gear, but speaking with clipped English accents (BP or Shell transplants?). They certainly knew how to experience a Southern European meal, taking their time over several courses, each diner savoring a separate bottle of wine. If you can’t summer in Provence, this seems a more than acceptable way to substitute for a few hours.

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