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‘Miles notwithstanding’ in Sonoma
Sonoma oozes quaintness. Yet the plainer sister of Napa comes by its tourist attractions honestly. Rugged, gold-tinged hills rise above the spacious, rough-cut city plaza. The adobe barracks and mission — the northernmost and last of the Fransiscan outposts — are actually made of adobe, not just dressed up with stucco.
Locally curdled Sonoma Jack pops up on dishes, and even mechanics offer wine tastings. (You can tell things have turned too precious when the Bakery for Dogs sits next to the Segway store and the umpteenth sushi bar.) The wide streets open up to classic California bungalows with porches so deep and shady, you almost wished it got hot here.
For Sonoma is near the southern aperture of its valley, nearest the bay, and therefore cold, or cold enough for Pinot Noir. We learned that at Buena Vista, the “oldest premium winery in California,” dating back to the 1850s. The stone storage and tasting rooms are rustic enough, tucked in a wooded ravine. We tasted some of the Pinots, the favorite varietal of Miles from “Sideways,” but we prefered the Syrahs and Merlots, “Miles notwithstanding,” a phrase we picked up from our wine presenter, and repeated boorishly.
Gundlach Bundschu, a mouth full of Braunschweiger if I’ve ever heard one, claims to be the “oldest family winery,” perhaps in the country. It stretches over hundreds of acres and a dozen microclimates, producing a dizzying array of selections. We like surprises and we tripped on two in a dry Gewurtztraminer and a complex Zinfandel.
After some contention, we chose Ravenswood as our third and final stop of the day. Nonvintage and mid-range Ravenswoods — whose labels look like something out of Tolkien — can be found at any H-E-B, but the ones we swished around our etched glasses are available only at the winery or through its shipping club. A black-red Pickberry and a gem-like Todd Zinfandel were among our faves.
Over the years, California wineries have become almost punitive about their tasting prices and their club requirements. Used to be, establishments would strip the cost of the tasting from the total wine purchase, and club members could earn discounts without being stung with excessive case order rules. It’s all probably for the best for business, but it doesn’t cull out the busloads of tourists who trust only their well-traveled Chardonnay or Cab.
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