Home > The M.O. > Archives > 2007 > July > 16 > Entry
Counter Cafe: Too close for nouveau comfort
For years, owner Gus Vayas slung traditional diner grub (hash browns, steak & eggs, etc.) to a contingent of loyal regulars at his tiny G/M Steakhouse. After almost a quarter century slaving over the hot grill, cigar clenched tightly in mouth, Vayas closed up shop and apparently rode off into the sunset.
The closing of one the last vestiges of old Austin dining gave way to new blood in the form of the Counter Cafe. Opened in April by Debbie Davis, the renovated (but still small) cafe features a menu resembling one of the hottest trends in Austin dining: nouveau diner cuisine. But unlike other cafes of its ilk (The Woodland, Galaxy Cafe, Blue Star Cafeteria), the Counter Cafe has decided to cram its tasty operation into a shoebox-sized space.
Although you can still feel as if you could reach over and touch the grill from one of the 10 counter seats, not much else remains from the original G/M. Gone are the staples of the greasy spoon, having given way to a delightful, and rather upscale, menu that features many locally grown items that will undoubtedly appeal to the desperately-trying-to-be-cosmopolitan sensibilities of Austinites.
As my party was seated at three of the barstools (the only spots available in a cafe that features four two-tops and one table for larger parties, in addition to the aforementioned 10 counter spots), the pace behind the counter was at a frenetic level that would be maintained throughout lunch. While diners may find the cozy confines cute, if not a bit maddening, I can’t imagine the level of anxiety and frustration felt by the two gentlemen behind the counter who were forced to work in a space not even suitable for a hallway, although they went about their jobs with relative geniality.
In the tradition of eating locally (more or less), my buddy Steve chose the grilled Bandera quail ($12) served over a baby spinach salad dressed with a balsamic vinaigrette and topped with a smattering of red onion, strawberries and feta. While moist and tasty, the quail was not, as the menu stated, cooked to our definition of perfection. We would have preferred it cooked at a slightly higher temperature that would have given the bird a bit of a crispy finish.
Our appetizer of polenta fried oysters ($8) arrived after Steve’s entrée, an oversight that seemed almost predictable given the crazed nature behind the counter. While the polenta and buttermilk breading was light and crunchy, the breading seemed to overwhelm the oysters, which tasted rather pedestrian, and the dipping sides of lemon aioli and sun-dried tomato were mostly forgettable.
My other companion, the meat-loving J. Pope, was very satisfied with his all-natural hanger steak ($12). The meat was moist, flavorful and cooked to perfection, although we all agreed that we’d rather have a few more ounces of the delicious beef for a couple more dollars. Unfortunately, the accompanying fries left much to be desired. They were thick and fresh but lacked any discernible flavoring and could have used another minute or two in the fryer in order to reach crispy, golden perfection.
My all-natural cheeseburger ($9) came topped with fresh, bright (dare I say ‘pretty’) vegetables, and its juicy flavor definitely left the burger snob in me happy, although it was accompanied with the same sad, uninspired fries.
The staff at Counter Cafe was knowledgeable about the food and its origins, as well as friendly, although having a seat that close to a working kitchen preparing atypical diner food can be a bit distracting. While the food was generally a success, the close quarters left a little to be desired. Such an intimate and boisterous atmosphere seems to work better in a traditional diner. And, while I don’t mind watching a surly short-order cook flip burgers from such close distance, there was something incongruous about paying almost $20 for lunch while being forced to watch the chef season quail and communicate with his sous chef while the steam radiating from the grill melts the ice in my drink within seconds.
I wonder whether the discrepancy between style and sustenance will confuse or irritate diners. Because while I am sure many of the palates in the ever-changing Austin are more than ready for the Counter Cafe, I am not so sure the space itself is.
Counter Cafe
626 N. Lamar
Hours
Lunch: Tuesday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-4 p.m.
Dinner: Thursday-Saturday, 7 -9 p.m.(ish)
Permalink | Comments (5) | Categories: Food
Comments
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By FBA
July 17, 2007 10:12 AM | Link to this
Lunch is one thing, but to visit that ambiance adn pay $18+ for the dinner entrees when there’s so many other comparable options would seem ludicrous. The singer not the adjective.
By Hi
July 17, 2007 5:27 PM | Link to this
I had the burger, it was very good, but at $9 plus drink, it was over $12. I can go to Casino El Camino and get a burger, fries, and beer for less than that. And the burger is MUCH MUCH better.
A little to “hip” is this place. Lower the prices and have more appealing menu.
By M
July 17, 2007 9:34 PM | Link to this
I have been in a few times for lunch. The grilled pimento cheese sandwich is great as are the crabcakes. The prices don’t bother me, but I did notice today that the iced tea I ordered was a couple of bucks and the glasses are tiny. The staff is usually too busy to be on top refills. I’ll keep coming back - but make my tea glass bigger please!
By Paul Silver
July 18, 2007 1:15 PM | Link to this
I have had and enjoyed almost everything on the breakfast menu.
By allen
July 18, 2007 3:30 PM | Link to this
I stopped by there for breakfast a few months ago, had a decent breakfast that ended up costing almost $20. And then I went home and wept.