Home > The M.O. > Archives > 2007 > July > 03 > Entry
Smitty’s Market: the tasty tradition continues
Sure, Artz Rib House has great baby-back ribs, and the sausage at Iron Works is divine, but in my opinion, if you want the best barbecue in the Austin area, you actually have to leave Austin to find it. Over the next few weeks, I intend to hit up Llano, Elgin, Taylor and Kreuz in Lockhart, but my journey to the center of the smoke-penetrated heart of things began at the historic Smitty’s.
Historic, you say? That place has only been around for eight years. True and false. While Smitty’s has only been at that location for eight years, it is the original home of Kreuz Market, which stood in that location for almost a century. For those of you not familiar with the backstory, apparently there was a rift in the Schmidt family (which purchased Kreuz Market in 1948) that led to brother Rick Schmidt taking the Kreuz name across town while daughter Nina Schmidt Sells continued under a new name at the original Kreuz location. Confusing? A little bit. But the key here is to focus not on the family drama but on the meat.
I had not been to Smitty’s since it changed name from Kreuz in the late ’90s, and pretty much everything is as I remembered it. Entering the historic building you feel as if you’ve stepped back in time, as you are welcomed by the dark and hot confines of the smoke room. A small board alerts you to the bevy of meats you can order, which you do at a register backed by burning post oak.
My faithful dining companion, Tami, and I could not figure out the portions, so I simply told the kind fella at the counter that we wanted sausage, pork shoulder, pork chops and brisket for two. (The total came to $20.) In classic tradition, the master of the meats laid out two sheets of brown butcher paper on which he piled our bounty. Then he tossed on a handful of white bread slices and a quarter-sleeve of crackers, folded the corners of the paper, constructing a makeshift tray, and directed us inside.
Once inside, the time warp continues. From the Spartan, albeit classic, side offerings (pickle, cheese, onions, avocado, tomato, jalapenos and beans) to the pressed-tin roof and ice cream counter, the place seems as it must have 50 years ago. Well, except for the television in the far corner playing Fox News.
It was almost impossible to decide where to start our forkless meal (more tradition), but we began with the ribs, what I always consider the most telling work from a barbecue joint. The moist, flavorful meat fell right off the bone and had a delicious smoke taste without being overwhelmingly smoky. The ribs, as with all of the other meat, come brushed but no sauce is readily available. You can ask for it, as a person we saw in line do, but you are likely to receive an eye roll in addition to the sauce, as he did.
The pork chop, shoulder and brisket were all incredibly tender and juicy. Switching between meats, I finally decided on making miniature sandwiches on crackers, topped with onion and pickle to help me forge through.
With about 3 pounds of meat in me, there was only one choice left, an ice cream cone. I mean, a man can’t stroll around a historic county courthouse and pay homage to the classic buildings on the town square on a hot afternoon without an ice cream cone. Can he? That would go against tradition. And a trip out to the mind-blowingly delicious Smitty’s in Lockhart is all about tradition. And meat. Lots of meat.
For more on Lockhart’s barbecue scene, check out Statesman food critic Dale Rice’s review of Smitty’s from 2003 and his Central Texas Barbeque Guide from last June.
Click here for my photo gallery of the afternoon in Lockhart.
Smitty’s Market
208 S. Commerce
Lockhart, Texas (map)
512.398.9344
Hours
Monday - Fri. 7 a.m. - 6 p.m.
Sat. 7 a.m. - 6:30 p.m.
Sunday 9 a.m. - 3 p.m.
Closed on Fourth of July
Permalink | Comments (6) | Categories: Food
Comments
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By Sandy Huber
July 4, 2007 2:40 PM | Link to this
Please do not forget to visit Chisom BBQ in Lockhart and Gonzales Food Market in Gonzales, Texas…….GREAT FOOD
By Sammy
July 5, 2007 10:45 AM | Link to this
Meat Mountain hurts tummy.
By Marcus
July 5, 2007 7:25 PM | Link to this
12 miles further down 183 to Luling there’s City Market which I might add the good folks at Texas Monthly know all about.
By MO
July 5, 2007 7:57 PM | Link to this
I am familiar with the Luling Market and have been going for as long as I can remember. I will be going back soon.
By Jesse
July 6, 2007 7:30 AM | Link to this
I have managed to hit/eat at over 30 of the TEXAS Monthly’s List of the best BBQs in the state. Not only does Lockhart have the best four places in the state but when you add The City Market in Luling then Caldwell Country is the BBQ Capital of TEXAS
By jenn
July 6, 2007 3:35 PM | Link to this
are you going to coopers? cause it’s mmm … mmm … delicious!