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Home > Relish Austin > Archives > 2010 > September > 07 > Entry

Mexican Food 101: Gorditas de Piloncillo from ‘My Sweet Mexico’

In honor of Mexico’s bicentennial this month, we’re dedicating the Sept. 8 food section to all things gustatory about our neighbor to the south. This Mexican Food 101 series will highlight a few traditional dishes you might want to make at home.

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Fany Gerson, who grew up nibbling on colorful pastries and candies in Mexico City before becoming a pastry chef in New York, has just released her first cookbook, “My Sweet Mexico” (Ten Speed Press, $30), a playful, beautifully photographed book on the history and diversity of Mexican sweet treats.

“Handcrafted desserts based on oral traditions are being threatened,” Gerson says. During a yearlong “scavenger hunt” across the country, she found cooks who were as resistant to sharing secret family recipes as they were to taking shortcuts. “They are still laying the pumpkin seeds out in the sun for five day,” she says.

From polvorones to pastel-colored jamoncillos, Gerson says the desserts of her native country are unlike any other because of the enormous variety. “When the Spaniards came, they brought with their nuns, ingredients like nuts, milks and spices and recipes, including the Arab recipes.” Gerson says she hopes her book will help preserve these unique creations. “When you find these handmade treats, they are incredible,” she says.

Gorditas de Piloncillo (Sweet Fried Masa Cakes)

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2 oz. finely chopped piloncillo (a cone of Mexican brown sugar available in most Central Texas grocery stores)
3 oz. queso añejo or ricotta salata
1 tsp. freshly ground cinnamon
1 lb. fresh masa, or 1 2/3 cups masa harina mixed with 1 cup hot water
Lard or vegetable oil, for frying (about 2 cups)

Combine the piloncillo, cheese and cinnamon in a bowl and knead in the masa until uniformly distributed. Add a bit of water if it feels too dry or a little masa harina if it’s too sticky. Shape the dough into 12 even balls.

Place enough lard in a heavy pot to reach a depth of least 3 inches and heat to about 365 degrees. While this heats, flatten the masa rounds between your hands (you can dampen your hands very lightly so they don’t stick or press down on top with a piece of plastic wrap) to about 1/8-inch thick. Slide them into the hot fat and bathe them with a spoon so they are covered with fat at all times, and turn often, frying until they are golden on all sides and make sure not to overcrowd the pan. Drain on paper bags or towels and enjoy warm. (You can keep them in a warming oven for 15 minutes.) Makes 1 dozen.

— From ‘My Sweet Mexico’ by Fany Gerson

Photo by Ed Anderson for Ten Speed Press.

Permalink | Comments (1) | Post your comment Categories: Cooking, Desserts, Recipes

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By kunde

May 9, 2011 2:11 PM | Link to this

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