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Friday, November 27, 2009

A turkey-free Thanksgiving, times two

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After spending the past six weeks up to my ears in all things Thanksgiving, I decided that this year, my family would skip the traditional meal back home in Missouri for a week by ourselves at the beach.

But just because your table isn’t full of stuffing and green bean casserole doesn’t mean you’re not celebrating the Day of Thanks. We made seafood paella with friends earlier this week, which satiated the communal meal desire, which meant that yesterday, it was just me and my boys, braising lamb and enjoying the quiet, non-frantic house. (We’ve got our paella-making friends’ house by ourselves for the week.)

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It’s been a lovely Thanksgiving holiday, with more good meals than we’ve had in a while. I’ll be posting about dumpling-making and seafood markets next week, but in the meantime, I want to see a glimpse of your Thanksgiving. We’re putting together a gallery of Thanksgiving food photos, and you can upload pictures of your own here.

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Cookbook author Matt Lee: What’s in Your Fridge Friday?

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What I wouldn’t have given for an invite to the Thanksgiving of Matt and Ted Lee, cookbook authors and modern missionaries of Southern foodways. Just look at these green beans.

The Charleston-born brothers have plenty to be thankful for this year, just after the release of their second cookbook “Simple Fresh Southern,” a follow-up to the 2006 James Beard Award-winning “The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook,” which thrust them into the national spotlight. (You’ve probably read their articles in GQ, Martha Stewart Living or Food & Wine magazines or seen them make something scrumptious on a morning television show. They been blowin’ up, as they say.)

Their new book features innovative dishes made with quintessentially Southern ingredients. Pork, greens and cornmeal have never had it so good.

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Matt was kind enough to snap a few pictures of the inside of his fridge. He’s one of the many sriracha lovers, but he’s the first to fess up to late night pimento cheese sandwiches.


What three things are always in your fridge? Sriracha, half and half and country ham bits

What’s your favorite condiment? Artichoke relish

What’s your go-to late night snack? Pimento cheese on toast

Matt and Ted will be in Austin next week, promoting their new book at 7 p.m. on Wednesday at BookPeople, which means they get to revisit the Austin favorite breakfast of migas, a recipe for which made it into the new book.

Austin-Style Brunch: Greens and Eggs Migas

Good for breakfast or dinner, the Lee Brothers place this Austin favorite on a bed of collard greens and chorizo.
For greens:
2 tsp. peanut or canola oil
4 ounces chorizo or smoked sausage, finely diced
3 poblano chiles, seeded and sliced into thin strips (about 3 cups)
2 tsp. garlic, chopped
1 1/2 pounds collard greens, ribs removed and leaves thinly sliced
1 tsp. kosher salt
2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar

For migas:
1⁄4 cup canola oil
three 6-inch corn tortillas, cut pizza-style into 8 triangles
3 ⁄4 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 medium onion, chopped
8 large eggs, beaten
4 ounces extra-sharp cheddar cheese, finely grated (about 1 cup)
salsa, for topping

Over high heat, pour peanut oil into a skillet and when it shimmers, add chorizo or sausage. Cook until meat has rendered most of its fat, about two minutes. Add poblanos and continue to cook until they have softened slightly and the sausage is cooked through, about four minutes. Add garlic, half the collards, salt and 2 tablespoons water to the skillet. Cook, turning collards with tongs and adding more greens and those in the pan wilt, until all the collards are in the pan. Continue to cook until collards have softened and become dark green, about six minutes. Add vinegar and continue to cook collards until vinegar has evaporated and the pan is dry. Season to taste with salt and reserve.


In a large skillet, heat canola oil and one of the small tortilla triangles over medium-high heat until the tortilla sizzles vigorously. Add remaining tortilla pieces and stir them in the hot oil until they become crispy and gently browned, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted metal spoon, transfer them to a plate lined with a double thickness of paper towels.
Sprinkle with 1⁄4 tsp. of the salt, and set aside. Pour off the oil, and add butter to the skillet, and when it’s completely melted and frothing, add onion and remaining 1⁄2 tsp. salt.
Cook until the onion is soft, about 8 minutes. Add eggs and tortilla chips, and scramble until eggs are curdy but still moist, about 2 minutes. Sprinkle the cheese over top, cover, and cook just until cheese melts, about 45 seconds. Divide the collard greens with poblanos and chorizo among four warm serving plates, and top each portion with eggs and spoonfuls of salsa. Serves 4.

Photos by Matt Lee.

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