XL Food & Drink: Beer

Pierre Celis is back, and Real Ale's got him

By Mark Lisheron
AMERICAN-STATESMAN STAFF
Thursday, April 20, 2006

Had F. Scott Fitzgerald lived long enough to meet the fellas at Real Ale Brewing Co. he would have learned there are, apparently, an endless number of acts in the lives of Belgians — as long as they brew beer.

Real Ale, a rapidly growing company opening a big, new brewery in Blanco in early May, has lured Pierre Celis back from Belgium to oversee brewing ales that established Celis Brewing Co. in Austin nearly 15 years ago. Under Celis' supervision, Real Ale expects to deliver six-packs of what it will call Brussels White and Brussels Grand Cru to Austin beer outlets by the middle of this summer, Real Ale owner and brewer Brad Farbstein says. Brussels White will be the base for three ales made with the juices of Fredericksburg peaches, Wisconsin cherries and European raspberries, he says.

"This is a once in a lifetime opportunity to work with a brewer of world renown," Farbstein says.

At 80, this is Celis' third act in American brewing. He retreated to brew in Belgium after a partnership with Miller Brewing Co. soured. Miller bought out Celis and closed the Austin brewery in 2000.

Celis White, the delicate, aromatic style of ale Celis first revived with Hoegaarden in Belgium, returned to Austin in 2003. Michigan Brewing Co., a small, regional micro, brewed the beer through a deal with Celis that included his recipes, initial supervision, equipment and, importantly, the rights to the Celis name. Celis White and Celis Raspberry are still sold here in Austin, but Celis no longer has anything to do with their production.

Farbstein doesn't expect any confusion between beers with the Celis name and beers with the Celis blessing. The Brussels beers will be Real Ale beers, brewed by a company that expects this year to double its production of 4,500 barrels on 2005.

With a push from the little man who still ages his otherworldly specialty ales in Belgian caves, the Real Ale boys might not need a second act.

mlisheron@statesman.com, 445-3663